ancient bridge across the river Ljuta that powers the huge ancient wooden wheel. It is reminiscent of a medieval Alice in Wonderland garden overlooking the Adriatic sea and it is renowned for its fine cuisine and great wine selection. The decor inside is large round wooden tables, a mixture of Italian and Swiss decor common to the region with a fusion of mountain and sea which characterises the food too. Both the meat and the fish were succulent and well accompanied by wine from the local vineyard we had visited the day before. Not to mention a few Rakijas, purely for medicinal purposes and to aid sleep as we had seen so many wonderful and exciting new places. The people of Montenegro are very hospitable and expect you to do justice to the food and wine that is offered, so always try to finish as it is considered impolite to leave anything.


throwing rocks into the sea overtime as they passed, still a tradition now, dominated by a single church dedicated to the Madonna and child. The church here dates back to 1452 and the paintings are world famous, particularly the tapestry that was embroidered by Jacinta Kunić Mijović who used gold and silver fibres, including her own hair whilst waiting 25 years for her lover to return. There is something magical in alighting at such a fairytale spot in a stylish yacht and if you are lucky enough to find it deserted, a haven of tranquility and peace with 360 degree views of the bay and mountains around it.


Just opposite is Perast which sits between the hill of


St. Ilija and the Bay of Kotor. It boasts


much of the oldest architecture and a staggering 19 churches for a population of only 269, measured in 2011. It is a trip back in history, and you can sit out on the terrace overlooking the islets at The Hotel Conte, which is well worth a stop. Deep at the end of the bay is Kotor itself with its own little marina nestled between the two adjacent mountains. We dined at the Galion restaurant for lunch, with its glass fronted pier that puts you right out over the water, admiring the sailing boats as they floated in and out of the harbour. The atmosphere and seafood at the Galion are excellent, the perfect place to gain the strength required for our march up the mountain to St John’s Fortress. This is a hike of


over 1300 steps up the fortress walls, ramparts, gates and church shrines and if you are fit will take about half an hour. The steps are loose and there are no railings, it is pretty steep at times, and all the better for all these things, for it is a genuine climb, without having been developed for tourism. The best time to go would be to catch the sunset at the top, plus cooler for the climb up (and down). The view over Kotor Bay and the mountains is breath taking.


That evening we dined at the Stari Milini restaurant in Dobrota, just outside Kotor. It is an old water mill used for making flour and the setting is old world charm, with its


Next morning we set off for Lovćen, the mountain national park, which has impressive twin peaks, the tallest rises to almost 1800m (just under 6000ft) and the vista is jaw dropping. In a little over two hours we reached the Petar Petrović Njegoš's Mausoleum, the tomb built to honour the warrior poet king and his wife who fought ferociously against the Ottoman empire and is widely admired in Montenegro. His texts are still read and abound with tales of glorious battles and his warrior philosophy. The tomb itself is absolutely magnificent and should be included in any bucket list of extraordinary places to see in the world. It is built entirely covering this tiny peak right at the top of the mountain and is accessible only by climbing vertical steps up to a neighbouring peak, then walking across an extremely narrow windswept path atop of the connecting crest. There are no barriers, and the fall is vertical. It is straight out of Indiana Jones and the Temple of Doom and this view puts it right up there as absolutely unmissable. The king’s tomb would make Lara Croft insanely happy and the statues of Njegoš and his wife are imposing and majestic. There is a 360 view of the mountains, the national park, Kotor bay and the Adriatic sea. You could spend days just taking it in and still not have enough time to do it justice.


Montenegro reminds me of Spain and Italy in the 70’s before the tourists got there. A place where great new travel legends and adventures can be created. Set to become the next elite luxury destination for the yachting and sailing crowd. So get there before everyone else and make sure to see all the sites. Very few countries have so many exceptional things to do and see in such a small space. This is the chance to experience a beautiful country before it becomes too commercial, before railings are put up and the sites are turned from genuine historic locations into more easily digested tourist destinations. Experience the full luxury of this shiny new marina, invest early in an apartment or bag a mooring for your yacht.


Portonovi Montenegro: www.portonovi.com surreymagazineonline.co.uk 21


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