Accessories are the new art A look at Christie’s upcoming handbag auction


Handbag collectors have been called the new art collectors, and with prices to rival more traditional art auctions, the world takes note at each one. Annually, Christie’s has two sales in London, two in Hong Kong and three online auctions. The next one in London is on 12th June. FOCUS had a chat with Rachel Koffsky, Christie’s Head of Sale, Handbags & Accessories in London about the upcoming sale.


What sort of people collect handbags?


There is not only one type of person that collects handbags. A handbag is a func- tional object – almost every woman, and many men as well, carry one every day. In fact, the Handbags and Watches depart- ments bring in more new collectors to Christie’s than any of the other cate- gories. Often, women and men don’t con- sider themselves to be collectors when they come to a Christie’s Handbag exhibi- tion – perhaps they are looking to make a smart investment or are new to auction. However, I have many clients who take a very serious, rigorous and academic ap- proach to the curation of their handbag collections. They are fastidious in their in- spection of limited edition and rare pieces, searching for decades for their holy-grail Birkin or Kelly to complete their archive.


Who are the biggest collectors? Is any celebrity or maybe nationality more partial to collecting at the moment?


There are major collectors all around the world. Clients in different regions defi-


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nitely have differing preferences when it comes to their collections. My clients in Europe are primarily looking for vintage rarities, while the market in Hong Kong trends leans towards new pieces in Grade 1 condition.


Who is selling? What type of person?


Often sellers and buyers are one and the same. Perhaps a collection needs an over- haul or a collector is making room for a new exotic piece.


Do you see more interest for the classic or quirky style?


What is so wonderful about the Handbag category are the intricacies in different collections – no two collectors have the same goals or preferences. Some styles tend to be very classic, while others are quite funky and individual. Today, I see a resurgence in archival and vintage styles due in part of Maria Grazia Chiuri at Dior and Alessandro Michele at Gucci, who are both heavily inspired by the archival work of the houses.


What’s the most unusual bag or luggage you’ve sold?


In December, Christie’s sold an Aluminium Explorer Trunk by Louis Vuitton, dated to1892. At the time, alu- minium was considered as valuable as gold – it was known as the white gold of Napoleon. The only other example of a known surviving aluminium trunk is in the Foundation Louis Vuitton museum. This piece achieved £162,500 at auction.


What’s the record sale for a handbag?


The most valuable bag sold at auction was an exceptional matte white Himalaya Birkin Bag with18k white gold and diamond hardware, sold at Christie’s in Hong Kong in November of 2017 for HKD 2,940,000 (£280,000).


What effect does a celebrity association have with a bag? Could it lower the price or increase it?


In general, the provenance does not affect the estimate or price realised for a bag. However in exceptional circumstances, a provenance will greatly alter what a collector will pay for a piece. Notable examples were from Elizabeth Taylor and Audrey Hepburn.


What’s the trend this year? Is it still small bags or do you notice something new?


Small bags – especially micro – are a huge trend now. Exotics and bright colours are also collector favourites.


Does anything come close to Hermes? Is it still ruling the roost?


Hermès is the leader in the secondary market for handbags. Following Hermès is Chanel, Louis Vuitton, Gucci, Dior and Bottega Veneta.


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