WINING & DINING - WINE EXPERT
I am going to throw my hat in the ring here and put forward my, admittedly more special occasion, choices which would be many of the Premier Cru Chablis or, a real treat, a Grand Cru bottle, a good white Rioja, or another big favourite of mine, but often a love it or hate it sort of wine…white Châteauneuf du Pape. Also, a big, fat Alsace Pinot Gris…all pear nectar and quince… regardless of it being a good winter white choice, it would do me – and several acquaintances of mine – just fine and dandy for the rest of the year too; and…a Northern Rhône Viognier… mmmmmm.
Just a quick note regarding Chardonnay and oak, I’m sorry, I just can’t help myself (hangs head in shame). It will have to be quick otherwise it could eclipse all other written words in this month’s Live 24-Seven. Oaked Chardonnay can be very variable in style and quality. Oak chips – think large tea bag to dunk in wine for varying degrees of ‘toast’ – can make wine taste very harsh and give a burning sensation at the back of the throat. There is little point in being sniffy about such things, it is a commercial necessity, both for those who like their wine oaked at around £5 a bottle and for the producer. The difference between an oaked bottle and a bottle that is aged in new oak barrels at around £600 a barrel is there for all to feel in their pocket and taste in their glass. On this occasion and for this article, I have no axe to grind and am merely flagging up the point. A better barrel-fermented Chardonnay from Australia will show balance, have richness, structure and a creamy texture that will match and enhance many big flavoured food dishes.
Dry Riesling with roast chicken – and many other similar guises – superb! An aged Sauvignon Blanc with a rich, creamy pasta dish…bit of a revelation if I’m honest. At the risk of sounding slightly cliché, the combinations are endless and really only as limited as to how far you want to experiment.
Perhaps a few fundamental guidelines: rich and creamy dishes go well with a Chardonnay or Viognier; spicy dishes with off-dry Rieslings, spicy Gewürztraminer or Muscats; and slow-cooked casseroles go with white Rhône blends or a white Rioja.
Or…if all that decision making seems altogether too painstaking …just default to Champagne…
Santé
/ 87
Page 1 |
Page 2 |
Page 3 |
Page 4 |
Page 5 |
Page 6 |
Page 7 |
Page 8 |
Page 9 |
Page 10 |
Page 11 |
Page 12 |
Page 13 |
Page 14 |
Page 15 |
Page 16 |
Page 17 |
Page 18 |
Page 19 |
Page 20 |
Page 21 |
Page 22 |
Page 23 |
Page 24 |
Page 25 |
Page 26 |
Page 27 |
Page 28 |
Page 29 |
Page 30 |
Page 31 |
Page 32 |
Page 33 |
Page 34 |
Page 35 |
Page 36 |
Page 37 |
Page 38 |
Page 39 |
Page 40 |
Page 41 |
Page 42 |
Page 43 |
Page 44 |
Page 45 |
Page 46 |
Page 47 |
Page 48 |
Page 49 |
Page 50 |
Page 51 |
Page 52 |
Page 53 |
Page 54 |
Page 55 |
Page 56 |
Page 57 |
Page 58 |
Page 59 |
Page 60 |
Page 61 |
Page 62 |
Page 63 |
Page 64 |
Page 65 |
Page 66 |
Page 67 |
Page 68 |
Page 69 |
Page 70 |
Page 71 |
Page 72 |
Page 73 |
Page 74 |
Page 75 |
Page 76 |
Page 77 |
Page 78 |
Page 79 |
Page 80 |
Page 81 |
Page 82 |
Page 83 |
Page 84 |
Page 85 |
Page 86 |
Page 87 |
Page 88 |
Page 89 |
Page 90 |
Page 91 |
Page 92 |
Page 93 |
Page 94 |
Page 95 |
Page 96 |
Page 97 |
Page 98 |
Page 99 |
Page 100 |
Page 101 |
Page 102 |
Page 103 |
Page 104 |
Page 105 |
Page 106 |
Page 107 |
Page 108 |
Page 109 |
Page 110 |
Page 111 |
Page 112 |
Page 113 |
Page 114 |
Page 115 |
Page 116 |
Page 117 |
Page 118 |
Page 119 |
Page 120 |
Page 121 |
Page 122 |
Page 123 |
Page 124 |
Page 125 |
Page 126 |
Page 127 |
Page 128 |
Page 129 |
Page 130 |
Page 131 |
Page 132 |
Page 133 |
Page 134 |
Page 135 |
Page 136 |
Page 137 |
Page 138 |
Page 139 |
Page 140 |
Page 141 |
Page 142 |
Page 143 |
Page 144 |
Page 145 |
Page 146 |
Page 147 |
Page 148 |
Page 149 |
Page 150 |
Page 151 |
Page 152 |
Page 153 |
Page 154 |
Page 155 |
Page 156 |
Page 157 |
Page 158 |
Page 159 |
Page 160 |
Page 161 |
Page 162 |
Page 163 |
Page 164
