FOOD & DRINK
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normal social hierarchy reversed, not un- like the Roman feast of Saturnalia, where the masters waited on the slaves. The 'Lord of Misrule', a lowly servant, might be crowned master of ceremonies and japes, and echoes of the tradition survive today in wearing paper crowns found in Christmas crackers.
Like mince pies, Christmas pudding didn’t start off as sweet treat. In the 1300s fruits, spices and wine were added to help pre- serve the beef and mutton that made up the festive dish. By the 17th century, the
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meat was gone and it was solidified with eggs and breadcrumbs. By the Victorian era the practice of setting fire to the pud- ding developed, a tradition that would be greeted with a round of applause when it was brought to the table.
Most UK families will serve up a roast turkey as the centrepiece of their meal, but Christmas traditions are once again changing. The modern Christmas feast is likely to see chipolatas wrapped in sage and pancetta; steamed sprouts with chest- nuts and prosciutto, and apricot and wal-
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nut stuffing balls. As for the festive roast, some are opting for curries or pizza in- stead. Indeed, one major supermarket launched a Christmas dinner pizza last year, boasting it only took ten minutes to cook. I can only hope that in 50 years I won’t be writing about how pizza became a staple Christmas tradition.
Seren Charrington-Hollins is a professional food historian, broadcaster and food writer. She can be reached at
www.foodhistorian.co.uk
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