Technical
Iain Wakeman
Photo 5
original base, which by this time is a firm black layer of old turf from which the shape was determined (photo 5). On a new bunker, the first ring determines the shape, and an optional layer of sod can be used to form a base. Once the old foundations have been established, then the building of the side walls can start.
The first ring determines the shape and size of the bunker, and time must be spent on this to get it right (photo 6). The foundation must be compacted and level. A poorly formed or unlevel first ring will be seen in subsequent levels all the way up the face of the bunker. Each layer of sod must be compacted, and the backfill behind this sod must be compacted and levelled. From this point, it is just a case of repeating this ring on each level. This is repeated until the desired levels have been reached, all the time maintaining level layers, including from front to back of the turf. Cutting slits from behind makes it easier to bend the turf around (photo 7).
The art of building a bunker starts to come into play as you build up. Each level should be stepped back by the same amount. A thumb width is a good guide, but
Photo 6
it may require a little more, or a little less, depending on the steepness of the face and the severity of the angle required (photo 8). The centre and top, or highest point of the bunker, should point towards the centre of the green. At the end of each step, around the sides, a triangular piece of turf is used to blend each level (photo 9). Any remaining back fill sand can be used to level off the surrounding capping area (photo 10).
As the top layer has been shaped, a straight edge bar can help as a guide to blend the top of the bunker into the existing sward (photo 11). The turf can now be replaced around the top of the bunker (photo 12). Start at the lowest point when re-capping the bunker, and start the sodding from the bunker edge and work out, this ensures the turf will stay firm and locked into place (photo 13) A turf floor, if not already present, should be laid down with the grass side down (photo 14). This ensures the grass dies, and stops stones coming up from the sand below, and also allows the raker to maintain the desired level of sand in the bunker. In Rosslare, this is as close to 2” as possible.
Photo 7
At this point, we can trim the bunker edge, and place in the newly chosen bunker playing sand. The sand can be placed in level with the floor, or a small amount added at the base of the wall to create a dish shape. It is important to compact this as a ball can plug in it. The dish shape attempts to give the golfer a better chance, as the ball will roll away from the bottom of the wall.
In general, it will take a couple of staff
three to four days to complete an average size pot bunker. It does depend, again, on the amount of contour work to be completed outside the bunker, and the size of the bunker (main photo above). It is unfortunate, with the advent of televised golf and expectancy of golfers, that players should have a perfect lie and an easy shot from the bunker. History has been long forgotten, a pot bunker was once formed by grazing sheep scraping out the ground to find shelter, and became an exposed area of sand and, ultimately, a hazard to be avoided.
This article first appeared in Greenside magazine, the official publication of the GCSAI. www.
gcsai.org
Photo 12
Photo 13
Photo 14 FEBRUARY/MARCH 2012 PC 111
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