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Visit in-cosmetics Asia
in October!
Spotlight on Skin-whitening Conference What are the key challenges for skin-whitening
(in-cosmetics Asia, 14 Oct) – Interview formulators? Why is skin-whitening so confusing
“Skin-whitening” will be the theme of the Conference at in-cosmetics for bench chemists?
Asia in October. Conference Manager - and industrial chemist - Pam There are many pathways to skin-whitening. The usual approach involves a
Jones sheds some light on this booming and fascinating segment… number of two or more mechanisms or systems, such as exfoliation in
order to achieve sloughing off the dead skin cells combined with an active
How important is the skin-whitening market whitening product. This makes the skin smoother and increases skin cell
in Asia? renewal and also enhances the penetration of the active and therefore the
The market for the reduction of dark skin and skin pigmentation has been skin appears brighter and whiter. In addition, skin-whitening active
growing since the early 70’s. 44% of Asian women state that they have ingredients will inhibit or slow down the production of melanin and can be
problems with brown spots, freckles, melasma, age spots and pregnancy combined with UVA and UVB sunscreens which are also a necessary part
marks. 80% of Asian women report concern over skin darkening compared of this approach as once the skin is lightened it must be protected from the
to only 10% of women in Europe. Products are not only in the prestige sunrays to stop the darkening process. Formulators using these combined
range but now also target the mass market. Japan is the world’s largest mechanisms e.g actives and sunscreen concurrently, find the ingredients
market for the segment with skin-whitening products accounting for 15- are incompatible with each other or even difficult to formulate in a system
17% of all skincare sales. All multinationals, including market leaders P&G that has the desired skin feel and physical appearance demanded by the
and Unilever, feature a range of skin whitening/brightening products - and consumer. Finding the correct emulsification system and rheology is key as
they are continually searching for that edge in the face of stronger it has an impact not only on the products performance and stability but the
competition from local cosmetic manufacturing companies. Many of the consumers’ desire to repurchase.
world’s leading players are now having to “think global but act local” by
launching specifically designed products to cater for Asian consumers. How is the market in Asia changing? How are skin-
whitening products being promoted?
What are the methods used to whiten the skin? Asian consumers are becoming better educated. Once they have tried a
Skin whitening remains a controversial topic. Hydroquinone, historically the product for up to one month and found that it is not satisfactory, they will
most common but also one of the more controversial active ingredients has have no hesitation in shopping around to find a good whitening product that
been banned from use in consumer skin whitening products in most delivers its promise, hence the need for manufacturers to reinforce the
countries, although we do see some dermatologists using this product. One efficacy aspect as well as supplying the proof. The promotion of skin-
of the most common mechanisms of skin-whitening products is to suppress whitening products is also becoming more technical. Nowadays, ads will
or slow down the skin’s production of melanin. There are more than 50 often show how these products work, complete with technical content,
products on the market that claim skin whitening either by this action or by graphs, before-and-after photos of the skin. Female and male sponsors,
other chemical or mechanical means. Some of these products are from who are typically local media stars, are used to enforce the message that
natural sources or specific components of these natural products. These fairer skin is also synonymous with higher social and economic standing.
may come in the form of Liquorice (a plant extract) or Arbutin (from the
bearberry fruit) and Kojic Acid (derived from mushroom). What topics will be discussed at the Spotlight on
All work via the Skin-whitening Conference in Singapore?
tyrosinase, the The Conference will address the differing and rather confusing methods
enzyme in the skin used to whiten the skin, from melanin control to skin stress control, UV
pigment cells protection and exfoliation. The speakers will discuss issues ranging from
which the combinations of the various mechanisms at play, formulation
produces compatibility and/or stability as well as in-vivo/in-vitro efficacy testing.
melanin. Safety profiles, regulatory approval and claim substantiation will also be
addressed and so will the availability and affordability of skin-whitening
products in Asia’s key markets.
To register your interest to attend the Conference,
visit
www.in-cosmeticsasia.com/spotlight
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