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Women in Agriculture & Small Business Conference


Oklahoma’s Statewide ling By Allan Storjohann


ummer is here and my annual fi xa- tion with the lawn is in full obses- sive-compulsive mode. The lawn is growing fast, requiring more frequent mowing than I like, but trouble signs are starting to appear. As I trudge behind the mower, I am noticing numerous areas where the grass is no longer growing. You might have a similar situation, where only a few weeks ago you had a healthy and thick lawn, but now it has gone brown or died out completely. I thought it would be timely to offer some suggestions for resus- citating the grass in these dead zones and give some tips to reduce the recurrence of summertime turf decline.


S


My yard has areas of full sun, light shade and dense shade, so I grapple with a dizzying number of lawn issues. In the shade I try to maintain a healthy stand of turf-type tall fes- cue. Every fall between mid-September and mid-October, I spread a locally approved blend of tall fescue varieties to reestablish my lawn. But without fail by this time the fol- lowing summer, the fescue is already showing signs of stress from low light and high tem- peratures. When I increase the water to help out my grass, it’s almost a sure thing that in the most shaded areas the lawn gets attacked by water mold fungi and melts away for the season.


What seems to help a great deal is to thin


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out the canopy of my trees to provide more sunshine on the turf and open up areas around the lawn to facilitate better air move- ment. The faster the grass dries after irriga- tion or a rain, the less chance it will have to contract the dreaded brown patch disease. At least once a season I apply a lawn fungicide product for added protection. I also reject the temptation to fertilize my fescue in the summer, no matter how bad it looks, because invariably, this will hasten disease problems. Out in the full sun, my bermuda grass has had a great spring so far, but it won’t be long before insects, disease and weeds could cause that part of my lawn to nose dive. So, it pays to spray with the same fungicide I used on the fescue and to make another application of a crabgrass control product. Fertilizing every four to six weeks makes a huge difference in the quality of bermuda grass. I recommend a commercially prepared turf fertilizer, not a garden fertilizer, with relatively low nitrogen and added sulfur and iron. If you can fi nd


10 OKLAHOMA LIVING Green All Season Long


one at a good price, get a combination prod- uct with weed control ingredients and/or an insecticide added to the fertilizer. I have talked to many folks who are about ready to give up trying to keep grass alive in the shaded areas of the lawn. The grass seems to die out every year regardless of how much spraying, watering, fertilizing and reseeding is done. If you fi nd yourself in this situation, it might be time to consider how you can re- duce the lawn area and plant groundcovers where grass will not grow. This will cut back on your mowing time and the cost for water and lawn care products. Some great groundcovers for the shady areas include English ivy, vinca, moneywort, liriope (monkey grass), and ophiopogon (mondo grass). These groundcovers will not do well if they get more than four to six hours of direct sun, so study the area a bit before you plant them. I use an old garden hose to locate the border of the new groundcover bed and then spray paint along it to mark where the new metal edging will be installed. It’s a good idea to have a hard edge between the lawn grass and groundcovers for easier maintenance as time goes by. A shallow til- ing of the new groundcover planting bed, just one or two inches, should not harm the tree roots, and will loosen the existing turf for re- moval. After you plant the new groundcover I encourage you to sprinkle the area with a pre-emergent herbicide to keep weeds at bay until the groundcover thickens and covers the bare ground.


Hopefully these suggestions will help you grow a lawn that is the envy of the neighbor- hood this season—green, thick and beautiful!


Handy Tips


✓ Thin out tree canopy to facili- tate air movement


✓ Apply lawn fungicide once a season


✓ Fertilize once every four to six weeks with a commercially prepared fertilizer


✓ Reduce lawn area and plant more groundcovers OL


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