Opposite, left: in early evening the restaurant at Opat fills rapidly;
right: slipping quietly into Tribunj. This page, left: one of the
a fully equipped marina for fishing boat that we watched
bridges spanning the gorge to Skradin; top right: busy Saturday
K330 (£42 per night). As one offloading later that night
changeover; bottom right: the Kiriacoulis office at Biograd.
would expect in such a resort, certainly seemed to have a fair
there is a plentiful selection sized catch – maybe the locals
of restaurants to choose from, were able to hang on to just a ahead for the restaurant through the Vela Proversa, but
but probably all at the slightly bit of it. to guarantee a good table, the channel is well marked
higher ‘tourist’ rate K750 (£24 The Kornati National Park preferably with a view across and we did not experience
per head). includes some 89 islands and the bay. We were in luck and anything like the 3kn current
The next morning produced they are only occupied during were soon enjoying a fabulous that was mentioned in one of
yet more excellent sailing as the summer months. It can be meal, all four of us sharing the guides. We wove our way
we continued along down quite interesting picking one’s the one huge fish as a main along the W side of Zut, then
this exquisite coastline. We way between them, because course. The wine flowed and it E around the S of Pasman and
dropped the hook in a small they tend to merge into one was a suitably fitting last night back to Biograd. We'd had
bay for a swim and some on the horizon. We had picked to our week away. Mind you, it a superb week in which we
lunch, again enjoying the Opat as our destination, right pretty much had to be, because travelled a reasonable distance
warm, clear waters. on the southern tip of Kornati the bill was a huge K2,300 and yet I know that we have
I’d been told about itself. When we arrived in mid- (£75 per head). It was worth barely scratched the surface
Rogoznica or (Roger’s afternoon it was very quiet every penny though. of this remarkable part of the
Knickers as it’s apparently and the standard swim ensued, world. I suspect that this strip
known to some friends of followed by Kevin and Pete JOLLY GERMANS of Croatian coast is one that
mine), but somehow, having doing their ‘yomping’ thing Opat provided me with one you could visit year after year
found our way into the bay, up to the top of the hill on the of my most memorable nights and never end up revisiting old
we were drawn away from other side of the bay. During afloat, despite the contingent haunts. It is just so vast.
the huge Marina Frapa to the the rest of the afternoon a few of German students on the With an early flight out on
W and instead moored stern more boats arrived and Ian and adjacent 50-footer determined Saturday, we decided that to
to at the quay on the very S I greeted our intrepid heroes’ to make the place seem like risk the excitement of the bus
of the village on the island. return by setting them up a West Cowes on an August journey was probably more
Here you’ll find a lively town beer at the waterside bar. This Saturday evening. How we than any of us could endure
quay bustling with bars and is a beautiful setting, but bear never resorted to slipping their on the return, so a cab was
restaurants and yet surprisingly in mind that to keep it that lines I shall never know. booked and 90 minutes later
our excellent fish dinner that way, absolutely everything Our last day away and and £110 lighter, a stress-free
night was not the usual jaw has to be either imported the wind finally deserted return was enjoyed by all.
dropper, but a very reasonable (including the firewood for the us. However, the motor up Believe me, to cab it both
K730 (£23 per head). Maybe kitchen) or exported (along the W coast of Kornati was ways you’ll be missing out on
all the tourists stick to the with all the rubbish). stunning. We were going to cut many of the glorious sights
other side of town. The It is worthwhile booking between Kornati and Katina that Croatia has to offer. ■
July 09 Sailing Today 93
ST147
Croatia_RTG.indd 105 12/5/09 22:06:18
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