CRUISING
ADRIA
Cr
TIC PILO
oatia,
Slovenia, T
East Coast of Italy and Montenegr
Albania o
WEA
THER
CHAR
TS
& PILOTS
The Dalmatian coast, Istria and the islands have a mild Mediterranean CHARTS: Imray chart M25 (Otok Rab to Sibenik),
climate. In southern Dalmatia, where the sirocco (known here as the jugo) Admiralty Small Craft SC5767 Trevor and Dinah
Thompson
5TH EDITION
brings a moderating influence from Africa, summers are sunny, warm BOOKS: Adriatic Pilot by T & D Thompson (Imray,
and dry, while the winters are rainy. In the north the winters are drier £32.50), Croatia Cruising Companion by J Cody
and colder as a result of the cold northeasterly bora. In the summer the and J Nash (Wiley Nautical £24.99)
mistral has a cooling effect on the coast and the islands. The average
temperature ranges from 2°-8°C (36°-46°F) in January, to 18°-24°C (64°-
OFFER: Imray is offering a 10 per cent discount to ST readers who
75°F) in June. Rainfall is moderate and occurs mainly in the winter.
quote this article when ordering the Adriatic Pilot by phone.
Also available from Imray: Adriatic Sea Pilot Vol 1, Piranski Zaljev
to Visko More and Vol II, Sedmovrace to RT Ostra. Both £65 and
published by the Hrvatski Hidrografski Institut.
Contact: Imray 01480 462114
www.imray.com
TOR
BOA
T
AND
OPERA
choose from for eating and we That night we walked
Our boat was a new Bavaria 39 Cruiser with three had a very pleasant meal in the along the front, drawn by
double cabins and two heads and the trip was
Bonaca just half way up the the only visible naked light,
booked through the UK agent for Kiriacoulis, Tenrag
Yacht Charters. The cost of one week on a similar
hill for K800 (£25 per head). and found a charming beach
boat and time for 2009 would be £1,791 excluding discounts
The next day was the real restaurant. Simple, but honest
for repeat business and special offers. Kiriacoulis has recently reason for our coming this way food served by good people
opened a new base in Croatia, Krvavica (Marina Ramova),
and that was to visit the Krka in a nice easy atmosphere. A
situated some 75km south of Split and 175km N of Dubrovnik.
waterfalls. A regular ferry starter of Calamari followed
Contact Tenrag Yacht Charters service runs from along the by an enormous mixed grill
01227 721874
www.tenrag.com
quayside up to the falls another washed down with bottles of
3M or so upstream. Although local wine for a measly K430
the admission price was K80 (£14 per head). The island was
(£10 each) it does include formerly inhabited by sponge
FOOD
AND
DRINK
the cost of the return water divers and one can understand
In the coastal regions of Croatia the cuisine has a Mediterranean
taxi. The series of eight falls why, because, to this day, the
flavour with plenty of olive oil used in the preparation. The tradition drops a total of 49m and is a waters around it are crystal
of grilling and roasting fish has been carried down from generation
spectacular sight even despite clear. Something for which
to generation, where the taste of the fish depends on the grilling
technique and the type of firewood chosen. There is also the tantalising
the reduced flow in summer the Croatians should be proud,
Dalmatian olive oil method of cooking, gradelavanje, which gives the
months. In the winter they because it puts most of the
fish a particularly delicious taste and many Croatian fish restaurants must be awesome. Mediterranean to shame.
have their own fishing boats, so you can be assured it’s fresh. Grilled
We got back from the falls
pork and roasted lamb are common and beef is often cooked in a
after lunch and left at 1600 for SUPER SAILING
delicious tomato sauce.
Connoisseurs of cheese must try the thick white cheese, svjezi sir,
the long but enjoyable motor On Tuesday morning, after
usually eaten with salt and pepper as an accompaniment to a salad.
back down the Krka river into a leisurely start, we set off
Paski sir, a hard cheese from the Isle of Pag, is also excellent. the Adriatic once more. A around the S side of the island,
Croatian wines were already reputable, but they are becoming more
further 5M SE and we reached out past the tip of Zlarin, then
and more renowned. Foreign beers tend to be expensive, so unless
you have a preference choose Croatian, which is excellent. Rakija
the tiny island of Krapanj. headed up the coast, cracking
(Water of life), when made from a base of plums, is Slivovica, from
We picked up a pontoon along in a fresh 18-22kn of
grapes Loza and from herbs Travarica. mooring on the N side of the northerly breeze. Croatia
island, run by the adjacent certainly never let us down
Spongiola hotel. Power and when it came to a good wind
water were available and full for sailing. Some 20M on and
use of the hotel’s excellent we were in Tribunj marina.
pool, gym and shower – all for Tribunj is a fishing village
a very reasonable K250 (£32 and a tourist resort, but very
per night). pleasant all the same and with
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