2008 WRITING COMPETITION WINNER: TURKEY
very inviting and the Turkish there could be quite a delay in any credence to be given to
people were friendly, polite achieving the end product. the stories we had heard. The
and eager to please. Nothing Our winter cover and announcement the following
ever seemed too much trouble sprayhood (including the day made us feel even worse
for them when we had repair stainless steel frame) came to when the same yachtie
work carried out to the yacht. £1,220, which we considered announced: “An official will
Initially we found it frustrating very reasonable. We found be visiting all yachts in the
that they would say “Yes” to most yacht equipment in marina inspecting for grey
everything, without actually Turkey to be cheaper than water holding tanks and if
understanding what we had other countries, but beware, you don’t have one you will
said, but once we realised this because they often sell copycat be subjected to a fine.” With
was their way we tried harder products that are not as strong the whole marina now on
with our communication skills. or reliable as the originals. alert the atmosphere was very
Orpheus didn’t have a negative. Very few yachts have
sprayhood or a winter cover, Beware of fines grey water holding tanks and
Tersane – we had lines ashore so we spent some time in a Our first encounter with the obviously none of us wished to
to the rocks.
marina in Marmaris while this reality of the rumours we pay a fine.
work was carried out. had heard came very quickly. As a result of this unrest,
We found from the outset We had only been in Turkish Hasan Kacmaz, creator and
that it was wise to obtain waters for two weeks when, organiser of the Eastern
quotes for the work and to during a live-aboard radio net Mediterranean Yacht Rally,
speak to others in the vicinity announcement, a message was contacted. As a prominent
with regard to reliability and came across the airways: figure in the yachting
workmanship. We noticed “Beware all fellow yachties, I community, Hasan had been
that the quality of work and have just been fined $30,000 asked to intervene and clarify
costs varied greatly and that for discharging grey water in the situation. It took him only
the Marmaris Bay area. After 24 hours to come forward with
paying the fine I shall be an update that the individual
escorted from Turkish waters.” being fined had not discharged
holidays would reduce the For most live-aboards, grey ‘grey’ water. Diesel and oil
learning curve for us. water means water flushed had been discharged from their
From there we ventured from sinks following ablutions bilges along with a slick of
through the Corinth Canal and meal times. Dudley and I soapy water from a washing
and northwards through the were disappointed and actually machine. The result had been
Sporades, across the Northern wondered whether there was a foaming oil slick that >>
Aegean and then headed south
through the Dodecanese as
far as Rhodes when we made
Above left: Amazon Creek
the decision to experience the
at sunset, looking out to
the entrance.
delights of Turkey.
Middle: Ancient site of Knidos
– popular with gulets. Orpheus
Off to Turkey
is nearest the camera with
At this time we had been
blue dodgers.
Bottom left: Dudley and
living on board Orpheus for
Bernadette on the Lycean way.
two and half years and had Below: Kemer Marina Bay,
heard many tales from fellow
Antalya. Yachts can anchor in
yachties about sailing Turkish
Moonlight Bay (foreground)
waters. Rumours and horror
when conditions allow.
stories had been relayed to us
with regard to heavy pollution
fines and bullying gulet
captains, but we just had to see
for ourselves. So many times
places had been recommended
to us with glowing reports and
yet when we arrived there we
were somewhat disappointed.
Experiences and impressions
of places, we have found, are
very individual things and we
were not deterred by what we
had heard.
Our first impressions of
Turkey were very positive,
the clear blue waters were
July 09 Sailing Today 75
ST147 CompWinner RTG.indd 103 12/5/09 21:49:12
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