A little feeling of despair had set pleased to find the atmosphere in here, where a surf board is an aide,
in that evening though, as we let out town to be light and cheerful. Perhaps not a hindrance. There are a number of
the sheets and turned from the wind. our senses were just deprived, but it beaches along the Pacific Rim Highway
Perhaps our objective was too ambitious seemed as though there was nothing that get consistent surf in a variety of
for the short time we had allotted, or at all to worry about here and that conditions, although there tends to be
maybe the weather was just too snotty. everyone was having a good time. Even a lull in July to mid-August, with many
If we set out the next morning and the RCMP (Royal Canadian Mounted breaks suitable for beginners.
conditions had not changed, it would Police) had a good laugh with us. We were total bums during our stay,
be demoralizing. Canada and the After having half-heartedly searched playing guitar and hanging out on the
waters of Barkley Sound beckoned us, the boat and ignoring Zeke’s stockpile beach all day with our friends Francois
but were beginning to and Teah. I surfed five
feel out of reach. hours a day in four to
When we set six foot swells, until
out with the ebb the I could not paddle
next morning, we any more. You can’t
encountered choppy help the feeling
seas and not much that this is a little
“Kayak” and skipper Zeke, at
wind, but forward piece of California,
anchor in Effingham Harbor in the
progress was being with people coming
Broken Islands, on the return trip.
made. Midday the from far and wide,
wind freshened and Australia, Quebec,
the flood flattened the and England, with
seas so that we were no greater ambitions
making 7.5knots and than this.
laughing! The following It was the heaviest
afternoon ebb carried of anchors to lift
us all the way to Neah after rowing out to
Bay. In 12 hours, Kayak the boat for the final
had covered 45 miles time, five days into
upwind! our stay. We consoled
After another day ourselves that we
of sailing in similar would overnight in
conditions along with Effingham Harbor in
a mellow swell, we found ourselves of fireworks left over from the 4th of the Broken Islands on the way home.
navigating the rocky entrance to July, he was talking on his cell phone Off the wind, Kayak churned through
Ucluelet, the sheltered bay the the north with customs officials and nodding his the water fast enough that navigating
end of Barkley Sound. Here we had head. became a full time occupation when
a close call. The jib fouled and back- “So you want me to arrest them not steering. At the narrow entrance of
winded while short tacking through the both and sieze the boat?” he said as Coaster Channel the wind was off the
narrowest passage between rocks and though he were repeating it verbatim, beam and the swells grew taller, and
an islet. Incredibly, a reef cleanup line but looking at us and shaking his we were hurled through the passage at
had knotted itself perfectly to a shroud! head. nearly nine knots.
I had to fall off the wind with precious We were quickly informed of the The enchanted forest that waited
little sea-room while Zeke climbed the important Wednesday night open-mic for us at Effingham was unanticipated,
rigging with a knife in his teeth. at the Floathouse, a sushi restaurant but once there we fully expected to
Ironically, the marine atlas informed situated on a barge adjacent to the see Ewoks. A trail through old growth
us that Ucluelet means “a safe place to marina. This is the social event of the forest weaves through ferns and is
land a kayak”, in the native tongue. The week in Ucluelet, it’s not to be missed. marked by bouys and other odd pieces
bay is protected on all sides, and our Performers had written endearing of nautical refuse, leading out to a
Kayak was happily motionless on its songs of their beloved town, and the beach on the southwest facing side of
flat surface. Anchored on the inlet here, place was packed with people singing the island. We were surprised to find
a sailor can leave the boat with an easy along. signs of habitation, a padded carpet
mind to explore trails in nearby Pacific Wikininish is a wide white-sand of moss was once a building site, and
Rim National Park, visit Lake Kennedy, beach, 7 kilometers up the road from rusted out pieces of a wood stove built
or as in our case, go to the beach. There town, which puts Ucluelet closer to in London. We learned later that this
is no problem provisioning here either, the surf than it’s more glorified rival was once the site of a native village.
so it makes a great base for exploring surf destination, Tofino. We had no Kayak then sailed wing on wing all
Barkley Sound and the Broken Islands, transportation but found that we the way home.
which are magical. already had friends who offered us 48° N
When we got ashore we were rides. Hitch-hiking is also an option
48° No r t h , oc t o b e r 2009 Pa g e 38
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