FEATURE COSMETICS
Brains
behind the beauty
Photonics systems are essential for making sure cosmetics are safe and effective, Jessica Rowbury finds
T
esting beauty products to determine if they can in fact hydrate the skin or smooth fine lines not only helps to justify
those high prices, but it is becoming increasingly important in brands’ marketing strategies. The cosmetics industry relies on a
variety of light-based techniques to ensure that its products are safe, effective and live up to promises made on the packaging. And, because companies want to obtain ever more detailed information on the efficacy of their products, there is a constant demand for analytical techniques that can measure further beneath the surface of the skin in a non-invasive and non-destructive way.
‘The cosmetics industry is always
hungry for new technology that can demonstrate the activity of their products. It is sometimes the same activity, but cosmetics companies are always looking for new ways to demonstrate it,’ said Laurent Peno-Mazzarino, technical director at BIO-EC Laboratory. ‘Cosmetics companies understand that marketing triggers the buy, but research leads to efficacy and triggers the rebuy. So, it is very important to invest in real research to make the best products.’ Based in France, BIO-EC Laboratory
18 Electro Optics May 2017
conducts research for various cosmetics enterprises, from raw material providers to companies selling finished beauty products to instrument manufacturers. Peno-Mazzarino noted that the affluence
of this industry means that many advanced techniques are used as standard in cosmetics labs; electron microscopes, spectrophotometers, bioluminescence measurements, confocal microscopes, and 3D scanners are commonplace, he said. However, despite the plethora of
technolgies available, there is still a need for accurate, robust systems for deep, non- invasive imaging.
Skin deep BIO-EC Laboratory was founded in 1998 as a result of a research project that developed a human ex-vivo model; a piece of skin, around 1cm2
, which can be used to analyse the effects of cosmetics and
dermatology products. ‘It’s comparable to real skin conditions; so, it’s close to in vivo evaluation on volunteers,’ said Peno- Mazzarino.
This skin model acts as an intermediate
stage between cell culture and in-vivo analysis, Peno-Mazzarino added. ‘Cell culture is used for screening raw materials, but we cannot put finished products on cell cultures. The other option is clinical evaluation on volunteers, but the investigation is restricted to non- invasive and non-destructive techniques,’
“Cosmetics companies understand that marketing triggers the buy, but research leads to efficacy and triggers the rebuy”
g
Horiba Scientific’s Raman instrument, the LabRam HR Evolution, is used for cosmetics research @electrooptics |
www.electrooptics.com
Horiba Scientific
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