15 a of truffles
Local produce is enjoying increasing attention in Mo- rocco. During the ‘Festival de Cuisine’ in Casablanca, a historic event took place: ‘the introduction of the white Moroccan truffle into French gastronomy’. Chefs from France attended for an exchange of expertise with their Moroccan counterparts. Up and coming chef Marc Lehoreau made a gnocchi dish using the white Moroccan truffle. A collaboration between the Ministry of Agriculture and the university has developed a series of agro-tourism routes. The route that passes Terfez and the truffle orchards is truly unique and a must-do for culinary fans of mushrooms and mycolo- gists! If you are interested in joining the next trip (April 2015) please contact the author.
Desert Truffles Tuber oligospermum are mainly exported to Spain and Italy, where they are used as ingredients in patés and conserved. Tuber oligospermum are white, and in appearance resemble tuber borchii and tuber magnatum, but with a less-pronounced flavour. Most of the other terfezia species are sent to the Middle East. Terfezia production in Morocco barely reaches 100 ton annually and is declining each year according to Professor Khabar. In Morocco prices vary from €7-50 / kg, depending on the season and extent of the harvest. Terfezia achieve high prices in Spain, ranging from €20-250. The goal of the TerFass association is to develop the terfezia chain by starting up local cooperatives and en- couraging sustainable harvesting methods. Harvesting using pickaxes destroys the fungi structure making harvesting in subsequent years impossible. The cor- rect way is to closely examine the soil for cracks made by the host plant, then hit the soil with a stick. The prac- tised ears of truffle hunters can tell by the difference in sound whether a truffle is hidden beneath the soil (see photo). The TerFAss association also aims to improve the chain through introducing regulation and pro- tecting the various species and their natural habitats.
Truffle pioneer in Morocco An excursion to the Middle Atlas mountain range was planned for Sunday. Vendors of terfezia and tuber oligosporum lined the road selling their wares early in the morning. In the Jaaba forest with magnificent oaks trees (quercus faginia and quercus iilex) Dr. Aziz Laqbaqbi was waiting to lead us on a truffle hunt. The experts with their trained noses added to the excite- ment of the quest. Laqbaqbi grew up in rural Morocco and was taught by his uneducated grandfather all about the nature in the spectacular surroundings of Debdou. Laqbaqbi studied to be a surgeon in France and discovered the black truffle (truffe de Périgord) in the neighbour- hood of Cahors. Back in Casablanca he was keen to introduce truffle cultivation to Morocco where a similar climate and soil type is often found as that of
Our cheerful host Profes- sor Lahsen Khabar
savours the desert truf- fle, Terfezia arenaria.
Tine Grebenc from the Slo- venian Forest Institute with Moroccan stu- dents, exchan- ging knowledge during a delici- ous lunch.
Pierre Sour- zat (l) and Dr. Laqbaqbi
the Périgord. In 1998 Laqbaqbi started his first truffle orchard in Debdou at an altitude of 1700 metres using 700 evergreen oaks (quercus ilex) and 300 hazels (co- ryllus avellana). He harvested his first kilos of truffles in 2006. 2010 and 2013 saw the planting of a second and third orchard. At last year’s Salon International de l’Agriculture, Laqbaqbi was decorated by King Hassan for his exceptional services to Morocco. Fired with enthusiasm and accompanied by his truffle hound Piou he scoured the orchard in search of the black truffle. However, the end of the season was in sight and his efforts yielded just some small truffles. Many lecturers emphasised the economic and eco- logical importance of truffles. Demand is rising, but truffles in the wild are threatened by over-exploitation, climate change and urbanisation. The time has maybe arrived to introduce labelling or certification of truf- fles, to enable consumers to see the provenance of the truffle and whether it was harvested sustainably. Or will the truffle trade remain a secretive and unregu- lated world, and will hunting for truffles in the wild gradually fade and disappear...◗
Page 1 |
Page 2 |
Page 3 |
Page 4 |
Page 5 |
Page 6 |
Page 7 |
Page 8 |
Page 9 |
Page 10 |
Page 11 |
Page 12 |
Page 13 |
Page 14 |
Page 15 |
Page 16 |
Page 17 |
Page 18 |
Page 19 |
Page 20 |
Page 21 |
Page 22 |
Page 23 |
Page 24 |
Page 25 |
Page 26 |
Page 27 |
Page 28 |
Page 29 |
Page 30 |
Page 31 |
Page 32 |
Page 33 |
Page 34 |
Page 35 |
Page 36 |
Page 37 |
Page 38 |
Page 39 |
Page 40 |
Page 41 |
Page 42 |
Page 43 |
Page 44
