CHEF’S TABLE
FOR DAIRY
Kilgus Farmstead à 21471 E 670 North Rd, Fairbury, IL (815-692-
6080,
kilgusfarmstead.com) TRY AT Big Jones
For Big Jones chef and co-owner Paul Fehribach, using local and sustainable ingredients is key to the Southern cuisine his restaurant churns out. Fehribach believes in sustaining local economies rather than buying ingredients produced hundreds of miles away. Take the restaurant’s dairy—it’s provided by Kilgus Farmstead, about two hours southwest of the city, and can be found in the kitchen’s grits and ridiculously creamy ice cream. Fehribach credits the texture and taste to some special bovines: Kilgus has a herd of primarily Jersey cows, which produce a milk of higher quality and stronger flavor than regular cows. à 5347 N Clark St (773-275-5725,
bigjoneschicago.com)
Abraham Conlon
Fat Rice, Fat Rice Bakery à 2957 W Diversey Ave · 2951 W Diversey Ave ·
eatfatrice.com
FOR MEAT
Slagel Family Farm à 23601 E 600 North Rd, Fairbury, IL (815-848-
9385,
slagelfamilyfarm.com) TRY AT Lula Cafe
“Can you hear the cows and sheep?” asks LouisJohn Slagel of Slagel Family Farm. He’s a true believer in his product. The family-owned fifth-generation farm supplies meat, including everything from bacon to lamb, to many Chicago restaurants such as Lula Cafe, where you can find its tender dry-aged beef on the menu. The farm lauds quality as a reason to eat local; from tenderness to marbling, a product doesn’t hold the same excellence after being shipped long distances. à 2537 N Kedzie Ave (773-489-9554,
lulacafe.com)
Abe Conlon, of Logan Square’s Fat Rice and its cocktail lounge, Ladies Room, grew up in the kitchen at his grandmother’s hip and watching Julia Child and Emeril Lagasse on TV. Since then he’s become a world traveler, author and famed Chicago chef who serves spunky Macanese and Portuguese dishes inspired by his travels. He hasn’t stopped learning. “I opened Fat Rice so I could learn and grow and progress,” says Conlon. Where else does he draw inspiration these days? From all around Chicago.
Favorite new restaurant “Giant (3209 W Armitage Ave): It’s unapologetic. They’re doing a lot of different styles of food there, and it comes together in an unpretentious and cohesive way: great classic technique presented in new ways.” He also recommends Momotaro (820 W Lake St) for the omakase and fun cocktails.
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On his radar Elske (1350 W Randolph St)— “I for sure need to check them out!”—and Bad Hunter (802 W Randolph St): “I can’t wait.”
Postshift drinking You’ll find him at a number of Logan Square bars, but Conlon has a soft spot for Billy Sunday (3143 W Logan Blvd) and any drink that Land & Sea Dept.’s Paul McGee pours.
Favorite neighborhood spot Lula Cafe (2537 N Kedzie Ave)— not just for brunch. He tells us it has the best quesadillas in the world. “Anyone who doesn’t think Lula is the best restaurant in the city is a fool!”
Down and dirty Cafe Orchid (1746 W Addison St) for a home-style Turkish change of pace; Nha Hang Viet Nam (1032 W Argyle St) for fish broth pho; and Bai Cafe (3406 N Ashland Ave) for whatever borscht it has on that day.
Springtime beverage of choice “Rosé all day!” ■ Betsy Kennedy
March 8–June 6, 2017 Time Out Chicago
PHOTOGRAPHS: SPREAD (CLOCKWISE FROM TOP) COURTESY NORTH POND; GRANT KESSLER; NICK MURWAY; KYLE KISSEL; COURTESY HEWN
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