Farm to Table Focus


Elegant Country Lodging and Delicious Fare at the Vermont Four Columns Inn


green with fir trees still covered in snow. This is the quaint and peaceful scene you’ll stumble across as you drive into Newfane, VT to the elegant yet timeless Four Col- umns. I was so excited to visit the Inn and the legendary Artisan Restaurant Tavern and Garden as I am a huge fan of its sister properties, the Delamar Greenwich Harbor and Delamar Southport Hotels and soon to open, West Hartford! And as expected, The Four Columns did not disappoint.


Q A beautiful, tumbled Carrera marble


walkway leads you up to the cottage that houses a cozy sitting room with crackling fireplace, Artisan Restaurant and an old- time tavern, where you’re greeted by the friendly and welcoming staff. The foyer it- self is a tribute to the Inn’s past as a 1960’s boutique property and proudly displays a mural of Newfane, and a side collaged caricature titled, “they Slept here”—with visages of Mick Jagger, Queen Latifah, Nicole Kidman, Tom Cruise, John Kenneth Galbraith, Henry Kissinger, Paul Newman and Sting. I’m sure at least one of them stayed in the room we had!


uintessential New England…old homesteads, and white-steepled churches nestled amidst the village


All sixteen rooms are spacious and beautifully appointed, many with oversized bathrooms, soaking tubs and fireplaces with views of the woods, which are ripe for hiking. Each one is an oasis of tranquility and luxury. Our room was simply amazing – aptly named Windham with a View – and what a view it was. Floor to ceiling win- dows as wide as they were tall overlooked the town green. Reclaimed wood beams framed the room and skylights allowed ample light to filter in above the luxurious and unbelievably comfortable king-size bed. Oh – and the shower – big enough to hold a party in – had dual showerheads and a gorgeous river rock floor. And if you need to really relax, The Four Columns has a pool and Wellness Center offering spa treatments, a private steam bath, shower and small gym.


One of the most unique and beautiful things I noticed about the rooms and Inn was the extensive art collection curated by Diane Birdsall of Old Lyme, CT. Comprised primarily of works from local New England artists, all the guest rooms featured unique and original works.


But let’s get to the food! Artisan Res- taurant, Tavern, and Garden is overseen by its Connecticut chef Frederic Kieffer, with local talent to execute his vision. Artisan, the team likes to say, cel- ebrates the abun- dance of agriculture and food crafts- people of Vermont. Artisan Restaurant is a delicious marriage of French Coun- try and American Tavern, and far from your ordinary farm-


16 Natural Nutmeg -May/June 2017


to-table fare. In fact, the Four Columns was the first “true” Farm-to-Table restaurant in the United States, preceding the legendary Alice Waters by four years. The pond was stocked with trout, the garden with veg- etables and herbs, chickens and pigs were raised onsite and game birds were sourced from local hunters. You can’t get more local than that! Today, much is still locally sourced, from the coffee, scones, and jam at breakfast, to the eggs from their own hens, and the venison sliders and many entrees at dinner.


We were lucky enough to be visiting during Maple season – so we were in for a real treat! Maple pancakes, maple bour- bon drinks, maple glazed scallops, maple bacon, maple confections and more – you really can’t get enough of that amazing Vermont maple syrup!


Dinner was a delectable 3-course meal


and we enjoyed one of the most tender grilled Mediterranean Octopus appetiz- ers I’ve ever had with hummus, arugula, and red pepper vinaigrette; and the Maple Pork Belly which was crispy and tender on a bed of endive. For entrees, we had the Hanger Steak cooked to perfection with sweet-sour shallot sauce, petite watercress horseradish cream and truffle-country fries; and the Maple Glazed scallops and prosciutto with delicious baby carrots. You can’t leave without having dessert, so


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