Golf
Golf
During dry or stress periods I may relax slightly on cutting, bring the height up to try and not use too much water as it is costly being mains supply
The putting area - no room for a driving range
hand water with hoses. The only downside is that our water source is directly from the mains which can be costly. We are slowly replacing the original Watermation sprinkler heads as some are not working properly.
During the winter months, the course does not get the sun until well into the afternoon. This can be frustrating if I am trying to shift off the snow or frost. On the plus side, it keeps the locals happy as they use it for sledging!
Greens 5, 6 and 7 are usually the last greens to clear from snow due to being sheltered by a woodland area. This can be frustrating for golfers looking to play their winter medals.
There is not a lot I can do about Mother Nature, but it’s something that we need to manage and accept. When we are rebuilding bunkers, I need to take into account the lie of the land to try and prevent surface water running into them. I lost a bunker this year due to all the water coming off the hill and channelling directly into it. There are a few bunkers on the course like that and I have a plan over the next few winters to reposition them slightly to prevent this.
The only practice facility we have is a putting green which is used by our thriving junior
section. I am looking at installing a driving net in the future but, unfortunately, we don’t have the space for a driving range.
Tell us about your maintenance regimes
The greens are usually cut daily through the summer. Cutting heights during the peak season can range between 3.5mm-4.5mm. I usually hand cut them all summer with our John Deere 220 SL pedestrian mower. I try my best to hand cut as much as possible, as we have small greens. The triple is there if I’m pushed for time.
During dry or stress periods I may relax slightly on cutting, bring the height up to try and not use too much water as it is costly being mains supply. I would like the club to invest in a greens iron so we can do less cutting and put less stress on the plant.
I tend to verticut at the start of season, before topdressing, to remove any moss that has developed over the winter and through the summer when the poa starts seeding. When I took over in late 2014, the greens were very compacted and little aeration had been carried out. Last summer, I was getting a lot of dry patch as water was not getting down through the soil profile. I have carried out various directions of slit tining
- Treat Your Turf
echneat PC APRIL/MAY 2016 I 19
operations and a deep core using half inch tines, set at a depth of three inches.
This spring, I am going to be verti-draining the greens, so hopefully I should see an improvement on turf health. I usually have to hire in aeration equipment as the club cannot afford to purchase anything like that. We do own a slitter, which is better than nothing.
I apply two heavy topdressings a year, one in spring and one in autumn, usually after aeration. I would like to increase this through the season, but I have to topdress by hand as I don’t have a dresser at present.
The greens are mainly poa based and can be susceptible to disease outbreaks, so I spray fungicides as and when required. I spray wetting agent, iron, Primo Maxx and a liquid feed once a month in between some granular feeds. I am going to introduce seaweed to the mix this year and hopefully this will help with turf stress and root development.
Fairways are maintained at 14mm all season using a John Deere 3235c mower - twice a week in the summer and when required during other times. Fairways are sprayed for weeds as and when required. They are
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