If you are thinking of starting to sew, you’ll need to invest in basic sewing machinery, gadgets and accessories. Your basic sewing kit should contain the following:
Cutting tools There are many cutting tools from
which to choose, but a pair of dress- making shears is the best way to go. Shears are different from scissors in that they have two differently sized handles, offering better leverage when cutting long, straight edges. The asymmetrical handles are bent upwards, so that the fabric stays flat on the table during cutting. Left- handed shears are also available. The length of the blade can vary from 20 to 30cm. It’s a wise idea to invest in good quality dressmaking shears as they will last forever; cheaper scissors often break in half at the joint. Some dressmaking shears, known as pinking shears, have a serrated edge on the blade that helps control the cutting of lightweight fabrics.
Measuring tools Buy good quality equipment to
ensure that your measurements are precise. You will need a tape measure 150cm in length, with metal tips and preferably one that has the numbers in centimetres or inches printed on both sides. Try to choose one that is the same width as a standard seam allowance (1,5cm), which will be useful when you have to keep a constant measurement for seam allowances and hems.
Marking aids Marking certain parts of your work
is essential to ensure that things like pockets and darts are placed correctly. Choose one of the following: 1 Tailor’s chalk is ideal for marking most fabrics, comes in either a square or triangular shape and is available in a large variety of colours. The chalk easily brushes off fabric. A chalk pencil is also available and is easy to handle. 2 A water or air-soluble pen resembles a felt marker pen. Marks made can be
removed from the fabric with a spray of water or by leaving it to air-dry. 3 A tracing wheel and dressmaker’s tracing or carbon paper are used together to transfer the markings from a paper pattern onto fabric. TIP If you opt for a pen or a tracing wheel and carbon paper, test it on a scrap of fabric to ensure that the mark made will not be permanent.
Needles and pins Select sewing machine needles
according to the type and weight of the fabric to be sewn and the thread used. Needles vary according to the type of point and thickness of the needle – the larger the number, the larger the needle. For example, 60/8 universal needles are used to sew finer fabrics such as silk, 80/12 for medium-weight fabrics such as cotton, and 90/14 for heavyweight fabrics such as denim. Needles are sold in packs of five. 1 Hand-sewing needles are classified by the shape of the eye, the length and the point. Don’t spend too much time worrying about what size or type to get – make it easy on yourself by buying an assortment. There are convenient packages available that contain several different types of needles. 2 Dressmaker’s pins are similar to household pins in shape and thickness but are slightly longer. Pins come with flat heads or round plastic or glass heads. Ensure that the pins are thin and made of stainless or nickel-plated steel, or rustproof brass. 3 A pincushion will keep pins clean and sharp. Choose a fabric cover – a foam cover may blunt pins.
Sewing machine A sewing machine is your major
investment – even if it’s second-hand. Shop around carefully and check what different brands and models do and how well they function. The sewing machine doesn’t have to have the latest electronic gadgets, in fact, zigzag stitching and automatic buttonhole features will see you through most of your work. Prices vary according to the brand, model and its capabilities.
Here’s a handy checklist to ensure that the sewing machine is worth its price:
How good is the buttonhole it makes? Does the foot control work smoothly? Is the machine quiet and free from vibrations at all speeds? Does the light shine directly onto the work area?
Is the bobbin easily accessible? Can the cover plates be easily removed and are all parts easily accessible for cleaning? What type of guarantee comes with the machine? Are lessons on the use and care of the machine included? Can you lift the machine on your own without straining?
Nice-to-have extras (These are really for the experienced or
committed dressmaker.) • A cutting mat is used in conjunction with your dressmaker’s wheel when transferring patterns onto fabric. • A sleeve board is actually two ironing boards attached one on top of the other. They are designed for pressing small or slim areas such as sleeves that do not fit over your regular board. • A dressmaker’s dress form or dummy helps you to make a perfectly fitted garment. If you wish to continue dressmaking or if you intend starting your own business it is definitely a good idea to invest in one. The basic dress form is fully adjustable for bust, waist and hip measurements and it comes on an adjustable stand. This means you can set each section of the model to your own measurements as well as to your correct height. • An overlocker will reduce your sewing time, and it also produces a professional finish as it stitches the
6 IDEAS 2015
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