Technical
“ Why is this a problem?
- As the ball impacts the surface, the energy from the ball is absorbed within the horizontal voids rather than being returned to the ball, leading to severely diminished bounce
- This break in the soil and the differences in loam mean that we can also end up with very clear points of moisture change between one level and the next. In a soil that is all the same, or changes gradually, the water would be present in a gradient, even if the top is dry and the bottom moist. This can lead to problems when we come to prepare our wickets
- If we are not very careful, when the roller is applied, it can produce a slight bow- wave in the soil and have the effect of severing the roots at the point of the soil fracture, if the soil is too moist on top, giving an even deader wicket in terms of pace and bounce
- If the top portion has reached a fairly dry state, but the soil below that is still relatively moist, the top of the wicket ‘snaps’ as the soil beneath the dry layer gives way under the weight of the roller. This manifests in very close together, regular cracking which can move when prodded with the foot or, indeed, a ball pitches; ultimately meaning an extra dead surface as even more energy is absorbed from the ball upon bouncing and also variable bounce
- Only becomes a problem when the break is buried below about 15mm
What can be done?
- A good, deep root structure will help to bind the soil together and diminish the effects of a soil break, so aim to get a dense sward with the right grasses; annual meadow grass is a very shallow rooting plant in cricket squares
122 I PC AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2014
- Be careful not to roll when the soil is too moist
- If possible, spike before topdressing
- Always make sure there is a ‘key’ for new topdressing, either with scarifying grooves, seeder holes or spiker holes
- Ensure that the same topdressing is used each year. Any changes to topdressing should be done gradually over a number of year by mixing the new topdressing with the old in increasing quantities
- Regular spiking out of season at different depths will not only improve root depth, but also physically mix layers up and destroy compaction pans
- Hollow coring can be effective, if followed by topdressing, as the new loam will ameliorate the soil and also physically pin the two layers together. However, caution must be used as this can lead to a ‘dimpled’ surface the following year and/or leave hollows at the bottom of the core, since topdressing will often stick in the hole without reaching the bottom. If hollow coring is carried out, you should not core any deeper than necessary (a few mm below the soil break) and, as a rule of thumb, never more than a couple of inches
- Drill n Fill. This is a machine that drills out holes on a grid pattern. It is useful since it does not have any heave and so will not disturb the surface of ‘weak’ squares. Furthermore, the holes it makes are much bigger than hollow cores and, so, more soil
is being ameliorated in one go. The technique is to drill, clean up the spoil and then ram topdressing down the holes. In order to do this satisfactorily, the holes need to be physically packed down and then more loam applied - for this reason, it is very time consuming and just not possible for most squares.
Common problems on cricket squares: 3) Thin sward and moss invasion
These have been lumped together because they should be targeted with the same methods during renovations. Thin grass and moss go hand in hand. If you regularly suffer from moss invasion, there may be an underlying cause.
The best time of year to deal with moss and get a good grass cover is during the autumn renovations, i.e. before the problem occurs!
Moss is the symptom of poor grass growth rather than the cause of it, and a healthy, dense sward will keep moss at bay.
Tips for avoiding moss: 1) Get a good sward
- Ensure a good seed pattern during renovations. The best method is to use a
The technique is to drill, clean up the spoil and then ram topdressing down the holes
Page 1 |
Page 2 |
Page 3 |
Page 4 |
Page 5 |
Page 6 |
Page 7 |
Page 8 |
Page 9 |
Page 10 |
Page 11 |
Page 12 |
Page 13 |
Page 14 |
Page 15 |
Page 16 |
Page 17 |
Page 18 |
Page 19 |
Page 20 |
Page 21 |
Page 22 |
Page 23 |
Page 24 |
Page 25 |
Page 26 |
Page 27 |
Page 28 |
Page 29 |
Page 30 |
Page 31 |
Page 32 |
Page 33 |
Page 34 |
Page 35 |
Page 36 |
Page 37 |
Page 38 |
Page 39 |
Page 40 |
Page 41 |
Page 42 |
Page 43 |
Page 44 |
Page 45 |
Page 46 |
Page 47 |
Page 48 |
Page 49 |
Page 50 |
Page 51 |
Page 52 |
Page 53 |
Page 54 |
Page 55 |
Page 56 |
Page 57 |
Page 58 |
Page 59 |
Page 60 |
Page 61 |
Page 62 |
Page 63 |
Page 64 |
Page 65 |
Page 66 |
Page 67 |
Page 68 |
Page 69 |
Page 70 |
Page 71 |
Page 72 |
Page 73 |
Page 74 |
Page 75 |
Page 76 |
Page 77 |
Page 78 |
Page 79 |
Page 80 |
Page 81 |
Page 82 |
Page 83 |
Page 84 |
Page 85 |
Page 86 |
Page 87 |
Page 88 |
Page 89 |
Page 90 |
Page 91 |
Page 92 |
Page 93 |
Page 94 |
Page 95 |
Page 96 |
Page 97 |
Page 98 |
Page 99 |
Page 100 |
Page 101 |
Page 102 |
Page 103 |
Page 104 |
Page 105 |
Page 106 |
Page 107 |
Page 108 |
Page 109 |
Page 110 |
Page 111 |
Page 112 |
Page 113 |
Page 114 |
Page 115 |
Page 116 |
Page 117 |
Page 118 |
Page 119 |
Page 120 |
Page 121 |
Page 122 |
Page 123 |
Page 124 |
Page 125 |
Page 126 |
Page 127 |
Page 128 |
Page 129 |
Page 130 |
Page 131 |
Page 132 |
Page 133 |
Page 134 |
Page 135 |
Page 136 |
Page 137 |
Page 138 |
Page 139 |
Page 140 |
Page 141 |
Page 142 |
Page 143 |
Page 144 |
Page 145 |
Page 146 |
Page 147 |
Page 148 |
Page 149 |
Page 150 |
Page 151 |
Page 152 |
Page 153 |
Page 154 |
Page 155 |
Page 156 |
Page 157 |
Page 158 |
Page 159 |
Page 160 |
Page 161 |
Page 162 |
Page 163 |
Page 164