by tony reverditto
TABU (TA’BU): 1. Forbidden or disapproved of; placed under a social prohibition or ban: taboo words. 2. (In Polynesia and other islands of the South Pacific) marked off as simultaneously sacred and forbidden. TABU GRILL IS A ONE-OF-A-KIND INTIMATE SANCTUARY, nestled in costal Laguna Beach with wonderful ocean views. This restaurant hide-away exudes a feeling of seclusion, yet it’s con- veniently located minutes from many of Laguna’s finest hotels and resorts. A display kitchen places the chefs in the limelight for all to see, as they work their culinary magic on the wonderful dishes to come. Owner Nancy Wilhelm clearly knows her stuff and it come as no surprise that Tabu Grill receives the coveted Zagat score of “Extraordinary to Perfection” year after year.
TABU Rayne Frey and Moriah Robison are the dynamic
chef duo behind the culinary magic at Tabu Grill. They have known each other since they were kids and share much of the same background within the food industry. Robison found his passion for cooking while traveling through Brazil, where he met his wife and realized that food rituals were always the focal point of every gathering they had. As for Frey; his father was the inspiration for his becoming a chef—food was also the centerpiece that brought their family together. He is primarily self-taught—that could be why his food has such a homey, yet gourmet flair. I was very excited about experiencing Tabu
Grill because I had heard that the food was impec- cable—and guess what—it truly is! The service was also perfection, I am so impressed when a manager offers a food sampling/wine pairing. To his credit, the charming and well-informed General Manager Mi- chael DiGiovanni put together what is one of my top five dining experiences as a food writer. As you read on, just know that each of these courses was flawless and I truly savored each and every ultra-fresh bite. I was blown away to find out that all of their fish is sent
ULTRA FRESH FOOD
GRILL
Same-Day Express from Honolulu. The layers of flavor in each dish were superb and memorable. To start, we were served a delicious Round Pond
Sauvignon Blanc, Napa Valley 2010, a blend of tropi- cal pineapple, guava, with citrus notes. First Course: Roasted Pepper, Coconut Soup with dungeness crab and Fresno chilis; worth going back for, just to indulge in this special Thai-esque treat. Second Course: Seared Scallops, potato puree,
and a tangerine beurre blanc There is only one word to describe this one; OR- GASMIC! Third Course: Heirloom Tomatoes, panzanella,
avocado, sweet onion, Champagne feta vinaigrette; flavorful, healthy and a great combination. Michael thoughtfully interjected at this point the
Pine Ridge Chardonnay, Napa Valley 2010, crisp green apple, lush tropical notes, with a subtle oak finish to enhance the next course: Fourth Course: Mero Seabass, miso-marinated, as-
paragus, braised salsify, arugula, Beech mushrooms, and a truffle-soy yuzu sauce; two words: simply exquisite.
Another wonderful course pairing started with;
Milbrandt Cabernet Sauvignon, Wahluke Slope, Wash 2009, bold yet subtle with black fruits, choco- late and earth was a fitting choice for what was to come. 5th Course: Prime Filet Mignon, confit root veg-
tables, whiskey-braised onions, forest mushrooms, a maple-mustard emulsion, shaved foie gras torchon. The whole combination literally melted in my mouth. And finally for an end to a fabulous excursion;
Watermelon 50/50 Bar, watermelon sorbet, vanilla lime whipped cream, bruleed watermelon and a wa- termelon gelée; there is no way to describe it. Try it, what a brilliant finish. I found the entire crew to be efficient in manner,
yet warmly interactive and well aware of their job descriptions. It all comes down to this question; do I avail myself of the magic that is Tabu? As they say themselves, “Submit To Your Appetite.”
Tabu Grill, 2892 South Coast Highway, Laguna Beach is open nightly starting at 5:30—for more information or to make a reservations, call 949.494.7743 or go to
tabugrill.com.
AUGUST 2012 | RAGE monthly 59
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