FEATURED ROUTES
RUMNEY, NEW HAMPSHIRE (LEFT SIDE OF MAIN CLIFF) // ARMED AND DANGEROUS ROUTE BETA A
RMED AND DANGEROUS, AND OFF MY MEDICA- TION (5.10b) One of the
better 5.10’s in Rumney and should not be missed if you’re climbing in the 5.10 grade. Climb the first bulge easily and move toward the second bulge (crux); a difficult move will pull you over and to the overhanging jug haul. Full steam ahead, or get zapped before you reach the anchors. The route finishes on good holds to the anchor. Ten draws gets you to the top. Established by Tom Bowker in 1990 with a direct finish added in 1994 by Glen Cilley.
C
LUSTERPHOBIA (5.10d) Has the same start as META- MORPHOSIS and is just to
right of ARMED AND DANGEROUS. Move up through easy terrain and head toward the left-facing corner. Climb left to the overhang and follow the chalk through cruxy holds. I’ve taken plenty of whippers on this route, trying to dial in a sequence that works for me. Shorter climbers should be prepared for dynamic moves. The best part of this climb is the technical overhang; any fall leaves you hanging in space. At one point this route was climbed on uninspiring gear. Now rigged with seven bolts, you’ll likely have to take a number and wait in line. First climbed by Mark Sprague in 2005
2011 MAY JUNE | M
ETAMORPHOSIS (5.8) another great route to tick off and another route that was
established on sketchy gear. It has since been upgraded with ten bolts and is a nice warm up for the first two climbs. Follow the obvious crack and climb to- ward the left-facing corner, climb right and up the steep wall on good holds. Use a 60 meter rope on this climb, any- thing shorter, you’ll likely run your rope through your belay device and cause an accident. Established by Ted Hammond in 1982.
The newest edition of Ward Smith’s Rumney guidebook is your best tool for those looking to explore these climbs.
climber MAGAZINEism | 33
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