Explain what it feels like climbing up to the
Bottleneck on K2. I’m saying this with all the humility I’m capable of. I just want to be honest. I lead and fixed the traverse after the Bottleneck in 2009. It was very high, over 8300m, weather was perfect, but ice condition was terrible. Blue hard explosive ice for ice axe and deep unstable snow for the feet. I needed all my cardio capacity. When I reached the other side of the traverse, I was completely toasted. During the lead, I guess I was completely focused on what I was doing. It is very strange; I don’t remember having very strong emotions like fear or excitement. I probably used only the rational side of my brain. Doing exactly the same movement when I’m going ice climbing during the weekend. Yes, I remember that I was below the gigantic serac, but I tried to make it as fast as possible to get out of that dangerous section.
You have climbed all over the world, but you call Quebec home…Where is your favorite place to
climb when you have time at home? Cannon cliff (New Hampshire), Charlevoix region near Quebec City and anywhere with good partners…
What do you miss most about home when
you are gone on expeditions? My wife and the complicity we have together of course, but I also miss all the accommodations of my home like cold clean water, hot shower, toilet seat, espresso coffee, cold milk for cereal, cheap internet, clean clothes every day, etc.
What are your plans for this summer? Are you
training for another trip? Yes. Next summer (June to August 2011) I will attempt to climb a new route on K2 with Gerfried Goeschl and Alex Txikon. We start June 12, 2011.
Most crucial piece of gear? Sharp ice screws! Haha, now it is like an obsession…
2011 MAY JUNE |
climber MAGAZINEism |
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