Few American climbers have left as lasting and indelible impression on modern traditional climbing as Fritz Wiessner.
AMERICAN LEGEND: FRITZ WIESSNER (1900-1988)
German born, he immigrated to New York City in the 1920’s, importing his tremendous climbing skills to the burgeoning northeast climbing scene. Among his many accomplishments is the first free ascent of Devils Tower in Wyoming, a 275’, 5.7+ route climbed with only his signature hemp rope and just one piton which he later regretted plac- ing as “unnecessary”. In 1939 Wiessner was first to stand a mere 800ft from the summit apex of K2 in the Karakorum in Pakistan, retreating in deference to the pleas from his friend Sherpa Pasang Dawa Lama. The mountain would not see its first complete ascent until 25 years later. Wiessner is credited with “discovering” Gunks climbing and established the areas first route “Old Route” (5.5+) on Millbrook in 1935. He and his close friend, and frequent partner, Hans Kraus went on to establish many bold lines in the Gunks including High Exposure (5.6). The route was thought by many, even today, as one of the finest routes in the world at that grade.
“Slope-shouldered and stocky, almost without a waist” the huge grin of Fritz Wiessner. “[His] shape did not easily disclose [his] strength of arm or cat- like agility.” “Wiessner might more readily have been taken for a baker or bartender than a great alpinist.”
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– Laura & Guy Waterman: Yankee Rock & Ice climber MAGAZINEism |
The consummate explorer, Wiessner often focused his atten- tion on the traprock bluffs of Central Connecticut. His bold ascent of the tallest part of Sleeping Giant’s “chin” remained the standard of technical difficulty in American free climb- ing for years to follow. In 1935, Wiessner climbed the wide crack, now known as Vector, at Ragged Mountain, establish- ing the first 5.8 in U.S. history. The country wouldn’t see its first 5.9 until 1958 - some 20+ years later. Moderate by today’s standards, these climbs are still serious leads even with modern dynamic climbing ropes and hyper-engineered, lightweight, traditional protection. These climbs are very accessible and there for all to enjoy thanks to the hard work and stewardship of local access pioneers like the Ragged Mountain Foundation and the Access Fund. When you’re pulling the crux off-width bulge on Ragged Mountain’s Vec- tor or enjoying the airy exposure on the Giant’s Wiessner’s Rib think of old Fritz Wiessner - hemp rope tied to his waist, rope sole shoes, and a few clanking pins over his shoulder. Enjoy the adventure.
MAY JUNE 2011 |
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