INDULGENCES eating in by david vera


SUSHI


THE VARIETIES MAKI (mah-kee) means “roll,” so saying “maki roll” is


redundant—kind of like saying “round circle.” These cyl- inder bites make up the majority of the “Specialty Rolls” section of most modern restaurants’ menus. They’re the least traditional and, because of this, they allow for the most artistic and culinary freedom in prepara- tion. Salmon roe, avocado, tempura shrimp, tempura bananas…the sky’s the limit! Unfortunately, maki are also the hardest to construct. But if mastered and served properly, no man will refuse your advances. Well…no promises. TEMAKI is a cone-shaped offshoot of the above


listed variety. Also called hand rolls, much thought and edible décor goes into the presentation. The ultimate finger-food, popular flavors include spicy tuna and spicy scallop. SASHIMI (sah-shee-mee) doesn’t actually fall under


the umbrella of sushi, since it consists only of fish and no rice. It is nevertheless found on most any Japanese menu. It’s the easiest to make, but don’t think for a sec- ond that nice presentation isn’t important! NIGIRI (pronounced nee-gee-ree, not nee-jee-ree) is a basic fish-over-rice translation that measures approxi- mately two healthy bites. Extras can make all the difference…and help you


stay full longer. It’s argued back and forth whether or not soybeans harm the human body. All I know is that nothing accompanies sushi quite as nicely as a plate of edamame seasoned with ponzu shoyu (soy sauce, mirin, rice vinegar, smoked tuna flakes, seaweed and lemon). Of course a hot little bottle of sake never hurt me either!


AND ABOVE ALL…SAFETY!!! Few foods have the potential to give you the runs like


seafood does. I can’t emphasize temperature control enough. You can’t control the handling and packag- ing of your product at the store, but you can certainly minimize your chances of a foodborne illness once it’s in your hands. The colder the fish is when purchased, the safer. The quicker you get it back home and in refrigera- tion, the better. Common sense will tell you to wash all surfaces before and after making contact with a protein. Yes, your hands count as a surface.


DOMESTICATION 101


Adored by many, feared by a scarce few, the notion of making our own sushi at home can seem overwhelming at first—especially for those whose filleting skills are limited to cutting open a pack- age of Lean Cuisine. But have faith; making a nice, fresh meal is easier than you think. Sharpen those knives, wash that cutting board and hold on to your makisu (bamboo rolling mat)!


THE FISH First things first. Misophobes, you can relax. With the


THE RICE We know “sushi” as a broad term to describe many


colorful varieties of the fiercely presentation-ruled Japanese “raw” cuisine. But few realize that the literal meaning of the word originated hundreds of years ago in reference to the sourness of the fermented rice with which the fillets of fish were served. It wasn’t until the 1300s A.D. that “narezushi” began to resemble the “sushi” known today. Being a cultural staple, one can understand that certified sushi chefs must first master the art of rice (sometimes for years) before ever touch- ing fish. Look for white, short-grain rice. The popular “jasmine rice” works nicely. After gently steaming, cool the prepared rice to room temperature before handling, otherwise it will be too sticky. (Yes, there is such a thing). For the perfect subtle flavor, season with restrained amounts of rice vinegar, sugar, salt and (if you’re feeling daring) sake.


exception of shrimp, the protein in sushi is not necessar- ily served raw. Most varieties just haven’t been cooked with heat. The fish is first frozen to kill parasites and can then cured by various methods. Some processes contribute to the great flavors we’ve come to crave. Like smoked salmon! If there’s a price difference between two types of fresh salmon by $6 or so, there is a BIG difference in quality. The inexpensive varieties are almost invariably farm-raised and naturally gray in color, not orange like the wild sort. Orange dye is added to the cheaper, farm-raised salmon to give it a “competitive edge.” Granted, nothing particularly terrible will happen to you if you eat it. But your beloved Omega-3 fatty acid won’t be as plentiful per bite. And the difference in flavor is just as big!


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RAGE monthly | JANUARY 2011


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