FOOD IN MEDIEVAL TIMES
and dazzling creations must have been considerable, especially when
the occasion was a festive dinner, or even worse, a festive dinner dur-
ing Lent.66
Medieval cookbooks, which for the most part reflect wealthy upper-
class cooking, are full of imitation dishes for Lent, a time when the
consumption of warm-blooded animals, dairy products, and eggs was
forbidden to Christians. Sometimes it is just a single sentence at the
end of a recipe that contains the fast-day variation of a meat dish. This
is the case, for instance, with the medieval favorite known as blanc
manger, or white dish, which on fast days was to be prepared with pike
meat instead of chicken meat.67 At other times the recipes for imita-
tion dishes are quite elaborate. A fifteenth-century cookbook from
northern Germany, written in Low German, provides two detailed
recipes for imitation eggs. One uses the shells of chicken eggs to trick
the diner into thinking she or he is breaking the fast. The empty shells
are to be stuffed with a filling made from ground pike roe (a type of
egg acceptable for Lent, one might say), parsley, pepper, saffron, and
figs or raisins. The eggs are then put on skewers and grilled.68 The
other recipe is the fast-day version of a medieval crowd-pleaser, the
giant egg designed to make dinner guests wonder what fabulous ani-
mal could have produced such a marvel. Normally an animal bladder
filled with a great number of egg yolks was inserted in a larger bladder
filled with egg whites, and then cooked. In the case of the giant egg
for lean days, the egg yolk consists of ground pike roe mixed with saf-
fron and chopped figs, and the egg white of pike roe and almonds.
Once cooked, the giant Lenten egg is cut in two and sprinkled with
sugar and ginger.69 In these two examples, fish roe and almonds figure
prominently, but fish meat, various other nuts and seeds besides al-
monds, peas, and bread were also popular ingredients in imitation
dishes. Ground almonds, however, were by far the most versatile of in-
gredients used to prepare a whole range of Lenten foods, from substi-
tutes to cow’s milk, butter, and curds, to cheese, cottage cheese,
hedgehogs in different colors, eggs, and egg dishes. Fish meat is
shaped into fake roasts, ham, and game birds such as partridges, and
fish roe into sausages or bacon. Mincemeat is simulated with chopped
almonds and grapes, and cracklings or greaves (the sediment of melted
tallow) are made from diced bread.70
As the Middle Ages drew to a close, the church began to allow the
consumption of eggs and dairy products on the lesser fast days of the
year. This relaxing of the rules is reflected in various recipes for imita-
tion roasts that required eggs and butter as ingredients. To give a meat
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