FOOD IN MEDIEVAL TIMES
returned to the broth. Fine white bread is added, as well as saffron to
give it color. When it is boiled, the dish is taken off the fire, mixed
with egg yolks, and sprinkled with (spice) powder.14
Another group of dishes that adorned many a medieval banquet
table were the various kinds of aspics and jellies. The word frequently
used for jelly in the Middle Ages was galentine. It was derived from
the Latin word gelâta, which meant “something frozen.” Meat, fish,
or other foodstuffs were “frozen” in a gel that was extracted from an-
imal hooves or from the skin of certain animals and fish.15 Perfectly
transparent jellies were especially sought after. They were achieved by
repeatedly boiling and straining the gelatine broth. Maestro Martino,
however, refined this method further by using lightly beaten egg
white that trapped the tiniest impurities as it coagulated in the hot liq-
uid.16 He also gives recipes for multicolored jelly dishes, including one
in the shape of a woven basket. Many jellies were probably humbler
creations, especially those that used bread crumbs as a binding agent,
which must have made them opaque rather than transparent. But gel-
atin lent itself to more than making fancy dishes. It also helped to pre-
serve the food that was encased in it for longer. On fast days jellies
were made from fish. For the gelatina di pesce from Italy, for instance,
the fish is cooked in wine and a little vinegar, then removed, the liquid
reduced to one-third, seasoned with saffron and other spices, as well
as bay leaves, and then strained. Lavender is added and the liquid left
to cool before it is poured over the fish.17
Roast meats served at medieval banquets were usually accompanied
with sauces that were designed to counteract the presumed hot and
dry qualities of the meat by providing coolness and moisture (see
Chapter 6). Of the various sauces named after their appearance as
white, pink, blue, green, yellow, black, and camel- (or cinnamon-)
colored, the last two were among the most widespread in Europe.
King Richard II of England in all likelihood dipped his meat in an un-
boiled sauce from the Forme of Cury (The [Proper] Method of Cook-
ery) called Sawse Camelyne, or “Cameline Sauce.” It consists of
currants, nuts, the crusts of bread, powdered cloves, and cinnamon, all
mixed together. Then salt and vinegar are added and the sauce is ready
to serve.18 However, for veal, wildfowl, and venison, the aristocratic
meats par excellence, a boiled pepper sauce was the sauce of choice.
According to a recipe for black pepper sauce found in the Viandier of
Taillevent, ground ginger, round pepper, and burnt toast are to be in-
fused in vinegar or verjuice and then boiled.19
88
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