IN6 jan30 27/1/09 11:40 Page 1
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india knowledge
Jaipur
The Amber Fort
a
rd
Debbie W
Sex and the pink city
Millions of tourists are drawn to Jaipur in India by its
fort and decorative architecture, but Debbie Ward
OTHER ATTRACTIONS
also had a lesson in its former ruler’s fruity sex life
■ Palace of Winds: Built in 1799 to allow
the women of the court to watch street
A
lbert Square and Rajasthan might fort’s huge central courtyard. This leads processions unseen, this pink and white
not have much in common. But to highlights like Ganesh pol, a frescoed facade has nearly 600 screened balconies.
if the historic goings-on of the gateway featuring the elephant god, and
ruling classes had ever been the Hall of Mirrors, whose floral mosaics ■ City palace: Highlights of this beautiful
immortalised as a soap opera, the columned were once so reflective that it is said the home of the present maharaja include the
platform in the Amber Fort on which I was room could be illuminated at night by royal arsenal featuring elephant armour
standing would have been the equivalent of just one candle. and jewel studded swords and the textile
the Queen Vic. Entering another beauty, the temple of museum with its ornate royal costumes.
It was here the wives of the maharaja Shila Devi, I had to shed my leather belt,
would gather to plot against his many shoes and handbag to honour the Hindu ■ Jantar Mantar observatory: At this
concubines whose quarters, leading directly goddess’s preference for human flesh. People outdoor observatory, built by an 18th-
into his bedroom, were arranged above. were sacrificed here up to the 17th century. century maharaja, huge concrete arcs
The wives wanted to secure greater access Nowadays there’s nothing more sinister are arranged at precise angles to help
to the maharaja’s affections. The concubines, going on than tourists breaking the “no locate constellations related to the zodiac.
in turn, would plot how to secure better photography” rule to snap the ornate silver There’s also a giant sundial correct to
rights for their illegitimate sons. doors and the paintings of the goddess within two minutes.
The maharaja meanwhile, says my guide, wearing a skirt strung with skulls.
enjoyed them all as much as possible with Painstaking restoration work around
the aid of a kind of herbal Viagra. Karma the site keeps its rich array of frescoes and
Sutra inspired frescoes outside the one-time mosaics looking vibrant but there are other BOOK IT
ruler’s bedroom still attest to his prowess. interesting features beyond the decorations.
Mahindra Homestays has a three-for-two nights spe-
The Amber Fort and its inner citadel stand I discovered water channels once used for air
cial offer until March 31 at selected accommodation.
11 km north of Jaipur, a city also known as conditioning and a hammam now filled Jaipur homestays include traditional-style Madhu
the Pink City. Begun in 1592 and modified with sleeping bats and at the formal roses
Pushp Bhawan where B&B costs from £29 to £45 per
over the next 150 years it was a regional seat and spice garden I was shown an ingenious
room per night. A special 20% commission rate for
agents also runs till March 31.
of power and maharajas’ retreat. Tourists are channel that used to carry waste direct to
■ mahindrahomestays.com
drawn here in their millions, not by the tales the plants from the concubines’ toilet.
of bygone lust but the marble and sandstone It seems that while the concubines’ Premier Holidays spends two nights in Jaipur on all
buildings that incorporate the best Hindu metaphorical muck-spreading was helping
its four main tours of India. Tour prices start at £1,075
and Muslim style decorative arts. them compete with the maharaja’s wives,
for the seven-day Classic India based on the Golden
Triangle. Extensions can be arranged for clients wish-
I approached by four-wheel-drive but their literal muck-spreading may have been
ing to spend more time in Jaipur.
many arrive more regally, taking a decorated helping the ruler’s fabled herbal aphrodisiac
■ trade.premierholidays.co.uk
elephant up the steep cobbled road to the to thrive.
30.01.2009 61
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