38 dubai
“Dubai is the living embodiment of the ‘anything’s possible’ cliché. 50 years ago it was a dusty desert town relying on pearl diving; now it’s a mega-rich metropolis, sprouting from the desert like something out of a superlative
magic mushroom trip” LAURA GELDER, JOURNALIST
what he means as we explore the galleries, looking at everything from traditional Arabic calligraphy to an unsettling art installation involving a dead goat in a neon hula hoop.
A centre for culture It seems that cultural understanding of Dubai still needs a helping hand though, not least for the expats who make up 88% of the population. And what better way to foster cultural understanding than the Sheikh Mohammed Centre for Cultural Understanding. The centre is housed in the historic Al Bastakiya district, named after an Iranian family who settled here in the 18th century. The beautiful sand-coloured buildings are older than the 43 year-old emirate itself and still display the ornate wind towers which acted as natural air conditioning before electricity came to the desert. ‘Open doors and open minds’ is the motto of the cultural brunch at the centre. After some Arabic coffee and dates, our student hosts Dahlia and her sister Jasmine explain encouragingly that ‘we can ask them anything we like’. I’m not sure if Dahlia realises immediately that she has fi ve nosy journalists in her midst, but one thing is clear, she’s not so shy herself!
Fiercely well-informed, opinionated and proud of her culture, I admire Dahlia even if I don’t entirely agree with her damning view of the Western media. Deliciously feisty, her eyes roll slightly when asked if she thinks the Taliban act in ways true to Muslim beliefs. “No, of course not.” She asks if we’ve heard of Mariam al-Mansouri, the fi rst female fi ghter pilot of the UAE. Seeing our blank faces she again blames the Western media for our ignorance. Brunch debate subjects range from Sharia
law to the Dubai dating scene. It’s fascinating and challenges stereotypes that even the most liberal of us might have about Islamic cultures.
Delving into the past The best way to see historic Dubai is from a traditional boat, or abra. It’s hot and stifl ing as we chug along the creek past the low-rise skyline dominated by mosques rather than skyscrapers. On the other side is the Spice Souk, where the air is thick with dust and exotic fragrance and the shopping is a far cry from the designer boutiques of the malls. Here locals haggle over hessian sacks. The next door Gold Souk’s bling is all the more inviting thanks to its icy air-conditioned shops. Our last cultural stop is the Dubai Museum, where entry costs just 50p. It’s located in Al Fahidi Fort, the oldest building in the UAE,
and its corridors are like a timeline, taking you from its tribal village roots to the Sheikh’s mind-boggling future vision for Dubai. It’s a vision I’m not sure I’ll see because by the end of my trip I decide that perhaps a move to the Emirate is a bit hasty if only for the sake of my waistline! But I’d still urge anyone who has pre-conceived ideas of Dubai to give it a try – they will defi nitely be surprised.
Where to book it IF ONLY… 0141 955 4000
Three nights in a Deluxe Room at the JW Marriott Marquis is from £709pp, including breakfast, direct Emirates fl ights from Gatwick, private transfers and airport taxes.
ifonly.net
DOSOMETHINGDIFFERENT.COM - 0208 090 3890 The add-on specialist has a number of commissionable tours including a ski slope ticket for £35, hot air ballooning for £179, a helicopter ride for £139 and an evening show dinner cruise for £40 (all prices quoted are for adults).
dosomethingdifferent.com
Top left: Just some of the sumptuous spread at JW Marriott Marquis’ prohibition-themed brunch. Above: Wasabi Girl.
PLUS, back by popular demand -
Worldwide Book & Bank incentive. Cash in on every booking! See Facebook for more details.
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