www.railfan.com/onthemenu Raising the Bar
LET’S START WITH THE OBVIOUS: 100 Years of Canadian Railway Recipes: All Aboard for an Historic Dining Experience, the new cookbook and illustrated account of rail din- ing as experienced in Canada, is the most beautifully executed railroad dining car cookbook yet published. Know that I have a long shelf of railroad cookbooks — most if not all of them — to turn to for comparison, should anyone care to challenge my judg- ment. This book is an equal to any cookbook from Williams-Sonoma, Workman Press, or other specialty cookbook publisher. The book is published by Exporail, the Canadian Railway Museum, and is the work of a team led by Exporail’s museologist Marie-Paule Partikian and curator Jean- Paul Viaud. It measures nine inches wide by 11 inches tall, and is printed on heavy coat- ed (glossy) stock. Its 212 pages include a 13- page opening chapter — “Dining Railway Style in North America” — followed by chapters devoted to Entrees (appetizers), Salads,
Eggs, Meat, Poultry, Fish and
Seafood, Vegetables and Side Dishes, Bread, Desserts, and Children’s Menu. Full color throughout, except for the occasional his- toric photograph, it is especially noteworthy that each of the 90 recipes is illustrated with a full-page photograph on the facing page. The food photography is the work of Chris- tian Desjardins. The recipe pages generally include a sidebar illustration, everything from a “Chef’s hat worn in Canadian Pacific Railway dining cars,” to silver service pieces, menu covers, china patterns, car interiors, newspaper clippings, training illustrations, attire, linen, and artist’s renderings of pro- posed designs.
After getting over the awe inspired by the
book’s beauty, some questions came to mind. Marie-Paule Partikian responded. How and why were the recipes selected?
In an introductory note, Museum Execu- tive Director Marie-Claude Reid and Presi- dent C. Stephen Cheasley say they are “recipes that made train travel memorable, introduced local products, and highlighted the talents of Canadian railway chefs.” Exporail is a fascinating place to discover old steam locomotives and ride on a street- car. But it’s also where the largest collection of Canadian railway heritage is preserved. There is an archive center with more than 200 collections, illustrating our railway his- tory. With the help of our archivist, Josée Vallerand, I compiled a lot of information re- lated to chefs and cooks on trains, and stew- ards and waiters in dining cars. I consulted many old menus, newspapers, telegrams, and other types of correspondence related to recipes produced by the two main railway companies in Canada in the last century – Canadian Pacific and Canadian National. This helped me to collect the oldest recipes for the cookbook. For the most recent ones, I had great collaboration from VIA Rail Cana- da, the Canadian passenger railway, whose top chef provided me with the cookbooks produced and used by the company’s chefs for the last 30 years. The next step was to se- lect a variety of dishes, from classic to the most original, representing the last 100 years of Canadian railway cuisine. Our Mu- seum’s Executive Director, with a profes- sional team including a culinary designer, selected dishes that were prepared, tasted, adjusted, and photographed for the book. Looking at this project now, a few months af- ter the launch of the cookbook, I can say that it was a good team effort!
Did you try to balance ingredients from all provinces? We have so many culinary specialities in Canada! The cookbook includes some dishes made with typical Canadian ingredients,
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