Food Review
Treasure Trove Words and images by Alaka Prodhan
Living up to its namesake, Levenshulme’s Trove is something of a hidden treasure. From the outside, it gives little away. There is no name, no brass plaque or neon sign – nothing showy, nothing flash; but inside is a small café big on fresh flavours and mouth-watering artisanal artistry.
Eggs Benedict on sourdough with capers
It’s a Sunday afternoon, and sadly I’ve arrived a little too late to pick up one of the special loaves of bread, which are handmade on the premises each weekend. They’ve all been snapped up – this week it was a three-seed sourdough; last week, the equally popular garlic and chilli. But I’m in luck, as the freshly made bread is also used in the small but well- considered menu of sandwiches, salads and brunch specials.
Spring greens with poached egg and mustard
I opt for a trio of Trove delights - the eggs Benedict on toasted sourdough with capers and caraway hollandaise; spring greens with poached egg and mustard dressing; and the smoked mackerel sandwich with wasabi mayo and watercress.
The eggs Benedict is a revelation: the sprinkling of capers is an inspired addition to the usual bacon, poached egg combo, whilst the caraway hollandaise beautifully coats the toasted sourdough, which defies my pitiful knife-cutting skills with its satisfying tear and crunch. It’s a welcome rustic alternative to a soft, pliant muffin. Every mouthful bursts with flavour.
Smoked mackerel sandwich with wasabi mayo
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