NEW YORK CENTRAL 2013 CALENDAR
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IN 1913, ONE NEW YORK CITY’S enduring food fads was the oyster, noted for its ugly appearance and the gag-inducing sensation it creates on entering the mouth, but also for its delicate texture, rich flavor, and salty liquor (its legendary qualities as an aphrodisiac are still being debated). There were oyster stands, oyster shacks, oyster cellars, and oyster bars dotting the city. So when the Union News Com- pany, which then operated a string of restaurants around the country, got the concession contract for space to open a restaurant on the lower level of the new Grand Central Terminal, it recruited Viktor Yesensky, at the time famous for his oyster bar at the Hotel Knickerbocker. The Yesen- sky and Union News opened the new proper- ty in February 1913, just weeks after the ter- minal, under the less that mythic name Grand Central Terminal Restaurant. But it did include an oyster bar.
www.railfan.com/onthemenu Not Your Ordinary Station Restaurant The Railroad Reporter and Travelers’
News of February 1913 reported that it was, “in all respects, one of the most up-to-date institutions, as to neatness, systematic and prompt service, rich furnishings, with punc- tuality of employees so apparent that it is commented on by all the regular patrons.” Another thing that set the space apart was and remains the arched and vaulted ceiling designed by Rafael Guastavino Moreno, who eventually decorated nearly 1000 buildings around the world, including 600 that survive today. The ceiling was damaged in a fire at the restaurant in 1997, but great care was taken to match the original tiles and grout in the restoration. Today the Oyster Bar, which became its informal name early on, is said to be GCT’s longest operating tenant (if one overlooks the brief periods during which it was closed). Perhaps that’s why railroad documentary videographer Richard Luckin sought it out
6 FEBRUARY 2013 •
RAILFAN.COM
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