FEATURE: DAFTMILL • 19 AGENDA • Indeed. And to the on-
going operating costs of the distillery, which I guessed at around £1,000 per day. “At least that,” said Francis.
“Malt costs around £550 a tonne, and we mash two or three times a week. When we started it was £220. Deisel oil has tripled in price, and probably costs us around £400 each day. We reckon it costs us £1 per litre of spirit. American barrels have increased from £40 to £100; Spanish butts from £600-£1000. “But we only distil in June
and July, and from November through to March. The rest of the year we are very busy on the farm. We have around 200 head of cattle and grow potatoes, vegetables and, of course, barley – some of which is malted for us by Crisp of Alloa. “I operate the distillery myself,
DAFTMILL: THE PROOF IS IN THE TASTING
TASTING NOTES
I was privileged to be able to taste new make made in summer and winter, and six year old whisky drawn from ex-Bourbon and ex- sherry casks.
The spirit is robust and
oily, with herbal notes (fennel?); the summer make is more citric, with a hint of buttered toast in the winter spirit. Full gold ex-bourbon wood, the aroma was reminiscent of light vanilla sponge, with baked apple behind (as in Eve’s Pudding). The herbal note continued and later a trace of milk chocolate. The texture was creamy, with butterscotch and a light lemon note.
The ex-sherry sample was much darker, with scents of Christmas cake and prunes, and behind this an exotic spiceiness, like garam masala. The taste was sweet and rich, with good body. Both styles were eminently drinkable as they are now, but can only benefit from a couple more years on the wood.
I operate
the distillery myself, with help for half an hour when I’m mashing
with help for half an hour when I’m mashing in on Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays. The wort is fermented for between 72 and 100 hours. I distil Friday’s mash on Monday and Tuesday, Monday’s mash on Thursday and Friday, Wednesday’s mash on Saturday and Sunday. Cask fi lling is usually done on Wednesday. I only fi ll around 100 casks a year, mainly into American Standard Barrels from Heaven Hill Distillery; some into Spanish oak, ex-sherry butts.” “Have you thought of increasing
production by employing someone to run the distillery?” “Yes. Maybe in the future. But the more whisky you produce, the more you have to sell!” “When are you planning to start bottling and selling your whisky?” “When I think it’s ready. To put it another way: when I stop buying other people’s whisky and want to drink my own!” It’s a hard sentiment to argue
with, so I leave with a dram on my lips and my interest well and truly piqued.
THE SCOTCH MALT WHISKY SOCIETY
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