W
hile eating and drinking my way through the Saborea Culinary Extravaganza in San Juan, Puerto Rico, I started to wonder: What does saborea mean, anyway? Locals’ answers—“to taste,” “flavors,” “tasty, you know …”—all expressed the experience of relishing something so delicious you can’t pin
it down with words. On my last day there, feeling well-fed and content, I think I got it: Saborea means tasting joy, a sentiment that sums up Puerto Rico’s diverse cuisine. Tat cuisine is thriving—with new twists. Passionate chefs include Giovanna Huyke, who, inspired by her
vegetarian daughter, now fuses traditional dishes like beans and rice, empanadas, sofrito, and mofongo with lighter techniques and ingredients. “I’ve been working on developing our recipes and flavors in healthier ways,” she says. “I’ve made a lot of changes, but I refuse to lose any taste in my meals.” Delight in her creations that feature Puerto Rico’s sweet-savory balance of Spanish, African, Caribbean, and American influence.
Escabeche Serves 6 | Gluten Free, Quick
This is the Puerto Rican cooked version of South American ceviche; its vinegary taste pairs beautifully when layered over starchy plantain mofongo. Escabeches work with many seafoods; try it with shrimp or octopus.
2 pounds whole black sea bass, skin removed, cut into small cubes
½ cup extra-virgin olive oil 1 small onion, finely chopped 4 cloves garlic, sliced thin 1 red bell pepper, diced small 1 tablespoon capers, rinsed and drained 1 piquillo pepper or pimientos, diced small (bottled is fine) ¼ cup white wine vinegar 1 bay leaf 1 teaspoon dried oregano ¼ cup chopped fresh cilantro Sliced avocado and lime wedges, for garnish
1. Season fish with salt and pepper. In a large sauté pan, heat olive oil over medium heat; then add fish and sauté until opaque, 3–4 minutes. Remove with a slotted spoon to a deep plate and keep warm. 2. In the same pan, sauté onion with garlic and bell pepper until translucent, 5 minutes. Add capers, piquillo pepper, vinegar, bay leaf, oregano, and cilantro; season with salt and mix well. Pour over cooked fish. Let cool to room temperature. Serve with avocado slices and lime wedges.
PER SERVING: 349 cal, 23g fat (15g mono, 4g poly, 4g sat), 102mg chol, 29g protein, 4g carb, 1g fiber, 151mg sodium
Plantain Patties (Mofongo) Serves 6 | Gluten Free, Veggie
You haven’t been to Puerto Rico if you haven’t tried mofongo, green plantain that’s mashed, fried, and seasoned; it’s a signature dish in most local restaurants. Chef Giovanna seasons it with garlic and boils it instead of frying to reduce fat while still retaining its unique flavor. Mofongo is also made with yucca, yams, and sweet potatoes and is usually mashed and formed into patties just before serving.
3 green plantains (about 2 pounds total), peeled, cut in thick, round slices
2 tablespoons reduced-fat (2 percent) milk 3 large cloves garlic Olive oil
1. Soak plantains in salted water for 30–60 minutes; drain. In a heavy saucepan, arrange plantains and add milk, plus just enough water to cover. Bring to a boil, reduce heat, cover, and simmer until tender, 15–20 minutes. Drain, reserving liquid. 2. Mince garlic in a large food processor (or mortar). While still warm, add plantains and pulse (or mash) with a little olive oil, adding reserved liquid as needed, until plantains are soft and mashed; they will somewhat harden after a few minutes. Taste and adjust seasoning with salt and pepper. Form into six thick patties and serve warm, topped with Escabeche (left) or Island Mojito Sauce (page 33).
PER SERVING: 127 cal, 2g fat (1g mono, 0g poly, 0g sat), 0mg chol, 1g protein, 29g carb, 2g fiber, 5mg sodium
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july 2012 | deliciousliving 31
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