FREEZE [CONTINUED FROM PAGE 59]


and ecosystems to the glacial history of Mars, “the military is a tremen- dous part of what allows us to run the Antarctic program.” “No matter what kind of amazing


breakthrough they make on the sci- ence front ... framing that scientific discovery is the art and poetry of the place,” Vaughan says. “When you’re standing out there and you’ve got weather coming in — strong winds, snow kicked up, and ice crystals in your eyes — it can look pretty bleak.” But, he adds, “The beauty and majesty of Antarctica is always there.” The Antarctic Treaty intends to


keep it that way. Since 1959, the treaty has put a priority on peace, promoting international cooperation, environ- mental stewardship, and scientific research. Under the treaty system, waste-management provisions, a ban on mining, and environmental regula- tions all have taken root in the harsh climate. “There are no weapons,” Vaughan says, referring to another prohibition spelled out in the treaty. “All the trash and waste here has


to go,” he says. “It gets packaged up and goes out on the ships.” All of it. Every drop. The region’s pristine allure is, in


part, a product of its inaccessibil- ity — McMurdo is a lonely five-hour flight from Christchurch. For many who serve in Operation Deep Freeze, the need to pile on layer upon layer of cold-weather gear and pick up every speck of trash is a small price to pay for the chance to venture so far from the beaten path. Vaughan under- stands the appeal, but he is as aware of the hazards as he is of the romance. “Working here on a daily basis is


inherently more risky than some other places,” Vaughan says. “Just standing outside too long without the right protective equipment can lead to frostbite, to hypothermia.” Dehydra- tion is a constant threat on the world’s driest conti- [CONTINUES ON PAGE 82]


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