Positioned at the crossroads of Central Europe, Warsaw has a long and proud past. For fi rst-time visitors, however, the Polish capital’s illustrious history is not immediately obvious, says Steve Hartridge


Warsaw 48 hours W


FACTFILE


Where To Book it Cox & Kings 020 7873 5000 www.coxandkings.co.uk Three nights at the Royal Meridien Bristol in Warsaw start from £465pp including flights from Heathrow with BA, transfers and breakfast daily.


Where To Stay The number of five-star hotels in Warsaw does not reach double figures but near the top of the pile is the centrally- located Intercontinental, next to the Palace of Culture and Science. Mainly a business hotel, there are some great bargains on offer at weekends. Its main restaurant, Platter by Karol Okrasa, offers Polish cuisine with a modern flair prepared by one of Poland’s celebrity chefs. www.warsaw. intercontinental.com


arsaw has been passed between empires and dynasties, been invaded and


occupied several times and been the retreat of kings and queens. But it is best known for more recent


events. If 1944 was not exactly Year Zero, it did mark the start of modern Warsaw. The home of the underground Polish resistance during the Second World War, the city was virtually destroyed by the Nazis as the confl ict neared its close. The extent of this destruction can be seen at the fabulous Warsaw Uprising Museum, where attractions include a 3D ‘fl ight’ over the smoking city as it looked in early 1945. The museum charts the story of the 63-day resistance, and tells the story of how the guns of the Russians positioned on the other side of the River Vistula stood silent as the Germans went about fl attening the city. Many stones and other debris from the post-war rubble were used in the rebuilding of the Old Town, which today is the major port of call for tourists who fl ock to the Unesco World Heritage-listed square’s cafes, restaurants and nightclubs and trot round its cobbled streets and main Zamkowy Square in horse-pulled carriages.


From its elevated position, the Old Town is a good place to look back across the Warsaw skyline that now features the national stadium, being built for the Euro 2012 football championships which Poland will jointly host.


But the city’s most iconic building dates back 60 years. Like the restored Old Town, Warsaw’s tallest building was a ‘gift’ from the Soviets. The story goes that the hulking Palace of Culture and Science, which towers 231 metres over the city, was chosen by residents over a new subway system when Stalin offered them the choice. Today it is a multi-purpose attraction used for concerts, exhibitions, conferences and the arts. Take the old-style elevator to the 30th fl oor for unbeatable views of Warsaw.


The Polish Tourist Organisation is pushing the country’s modern face, such as its many


shopping malls, restaurants that offer a modern twist on traditional Polish food and cool wine bars and nightclubs. You’ll fi nd plenty of these in Warsaw, but the key to understanding a city whose appeal can seem complex and hidden lies elsewhere. For a glimpse into a Warsaw that predates


the post-1945 makeover by several centuries, take a 45-minute bus ride south of the city, to Wilanow. ‘The Polish Versailles’ is a tag given to the splendid 17th century palace which sits in 45 hectares of ornate gardens, fl anked by a river where visitors can take an afternoon boat ride. Back in the city centre, Warsaw has its


tourist trails, most obviously the Route of Kings which includes Royal Palaces, gardens, castles and historic churches. Don’t miss the Military Cathedral, fi rst built


in 1662. It is an odd combination of place of worship, art gallery with large oil paintings depicting key battles in Poland’s history and a memorial wall covered with the names of the victims of the infamous Katyn forest massacre in 1940. Then there is the Presidential Palace, Government and parliament buildings as well as galleries, museums, theatres and coffee shops. Two of its most interesting museums are


named after two of Poland’s most famous sons: the Fryderyk Chopin Museum and the new Copernicus Science Centre, named


Above: Warsaw’s Old Town is a central attraction year-round Bottom Left: Wilanow, ‘The Polish Versailles’


after the Polish astronomer and mathematician. The centre is a modern, interactive – and fun – science facility with 450 exhibits, a planetarium, and a ‘discovery park’ where you can perform scientifi c experiments like creating a thunder clap and, oddly, play the laser harp used by Jean Michel Jarre during his concerts. Another area worth visiting is Praga, on the Right Bank (of the Vistula). Until recently, this historic suburb had slipped into a state of disrepair, its famous market selling everything from suitcases to wedding dresses framed by boarded-up buildings. Now the dilapidated buildings are being brought back. In the vast one-time Konesar Vodka Distillery a centre for contemporary art has been established, funky nightlife venues are springing up along the main artery, Zabkowska Street, and prices for the newly-converted fl ats are rising. But Warsaw’s heart perhaps beats most


strongly in its many parks and gardens. These are found all over the city but the best known is the sprawling Lazienki Park, a place to lose yourself among red squirrels and preening peacocks. On summer Sundays, the impressive Palace on the Water, which once served as the residence of Poland’s last monarch, hosts free Chopin concerts.


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