Enjoy the wine city Jane Anson recommends the best places to explore the region' s famous wines
The Ecole du Vin Your first stop should be an introductory class to the region and its wines at the official wine school in central Bordeaux. Held through the summer months, from June to September, these cost just €25 and involve two hours of history, tasting theory and practice, with three or four wines from different parts of the region. Longer courses are available throughout the year. 3 Cours du XXX Juillet, 33075 Bordeaux (00 33 5 56 00 22 85; www.
vins-bordeaux.fr)
FOR SALE €4.8m
Saint-Emilion This Louis XVI chartreuse is set in 32 acres of parkland and affords fantastic views of the River Garonne. Through Agence Lafaye (00 33 5 56
52 65 14;
www.agencelafaye-bordeaux.com)
and a 6.6-hectare (16-acre) park is priced at €1.155 million. Henri Courau of Emile Garcin also
believes that transport has generated inter- est in the Bordeaux area: ` Paris is getting closerÐ it will be only two hours away by LGV in 2015± 16.' On his list, he has an 18th-century chartreuse said to be built to the design of Victor Louis, the architect who designed Bordeaux' s Grand Théâtre, in a 1.8-hectare (4½-acre) park 10½ miles out- side town at €2.3 million, and a 12-bedroom
château complete with ballroom for €1.98 million, both in Entre Deux Mers, a popular area right of Bordeaux, bounded by the Dordogne and Garonne rivers. He also has a château six miles from town on the right bank, whose 40 hectares (99 acres) pushes the price to €4.4 million. But although the market is thriving,
Knight Frank' s associate Stewart Cook of Classic French Homes, who specialises in large country estates, has noticed ` a big drop-off' in British buyers. ` Not in interest,' he explains, ` but in having to put their plans on hold because of the economic crisis and not being able to sell up in the UK.' Although the British still comprise the bigger percentage of his clientele, the Americans, Dutch, Scandinavians, Germans
www.countrylife.co.uk/international
and even Russians are now buying. Nationality is not the only thing that' s
changing. ` Twenty years ago, those looking for country houses here were mainly retirees. Now,' Mr Cook notes, ` younger couples who are still working are attracted by the rural lifestyle when their children are small, then move into Bordeaux for the secondary- school education.' On his books, he has a 520sq m, six- bedroom maison de maître with a swim-
ming pool 20 minutes outside town at €940,000 and a 10-bedroom, 17th-to 19th- century moated château in the Entre Deux Mers region, also about 20 minutes from the city, is going for €2,332 million. For families looking to buy in the country-
side, Helen Robinson of Savills' associate Bordeaux and Beyond recommends her own village, Monségur, in the Gironde, and Sauveterre-de-Guyenne, Pujols and Gensac in the Entre Deux Mers. ` For the interna- tional community, having Saint-Emilion on the doorstep pulls people in. For a well- renovated family or holiday home with
a pool, you' re looking at €350,000 to €500,000, depending on whether it' s a farmhouse or more formal. Larger proper- ties with a maison de maître or domaine of farm buildings go for about €800,000 or
Max Bordeaux Bordeaux' s city centre has increasing numbers of excellent wine bars, but this one should really not be missed; it' s the only place in the region (and perhaps the world) where you can taste all the top châteaux of Bordeaux by the glass. Mouton Rothschild, Lafite Rothschild, Margaux, Ausone and Angélus are all kept fresh in Enomatic machines, and come at rea- sonable prices. 14 Cours de l' Intendance, 33000 Bordeaux (00 33 5 57 29 23 81; www.
maxbordeaux.com)
Château Pape Clement One of the closest châteaux to the city centre of Bordeaux also offers one of the region' s best tours, with guided visits around the vineyards, château and underground crypt, plus an excellent boutique (owner Bernard Magrez has 35 châteaux worldwide, so you have plenty of chance to taste around). Look out for the horses that plough the vines. 216 Avenue du Docteur Nancel Pénard, 33600 Pessac (00 33 5 57 26 38 38;
www.pape-
clement.com)
La Winery A little further afield, but worth a visit, is La Winery, a wine-education centre in
the Médoc. Besides a tapas bar, a gourmet restaurant and regular cultural events, there is also an excellently stocked wine store.
O
Route Verdon, D1 Rond-Point des Vendangeurs, 33460 Arsac (00 33 5 56 39 04 90;
www.winery.fr)
Country Life International, Summer 2011 69
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