The Emerson Opener, or “wave,” has a hook on the back of the blade that snags on the pocket to open the knife immedi- ately upon the draw.
will cut. Again, opinions differ as to which blade grind (i.e. hollow grind, flat grind, chisel grind, etc.) cuts best. The reason for this is it’s possible to execute all
these grinds well, and
it’s possible to execute all of them poorly. As such, it’s hard to general- ize, so you’ll have to shop around to find blades that provide a good bal- ance of strength and cutting perfor- mance. One key feature to look for is the thickness of the blade immedi- ately adjacent to the cutting edge. If it’s thick there, the angle of the final cutting edge will be steep and hard to sharpen and the knife will cut poorly. Functionality is also defined by the
shape and construction of the knife’s handle. A good knife handle must pro- vide you with a secure grip and allow you to manage the shock transferred back into your hand during full-pow- er cuts and thrusts. Slippery, poorly shaped handles can compromise your control of the knife and in extreme cases could even result in self-inflict- ed cuts. If the shape and material of your knife handle won’t allow you to
A “flipper” opens the knife with a pulling motion of the index finger. Unfortunately, this requires com- promising your grip on the knife — a risky action in the duress of a defensive encounter.
positively manage impact shock, you need to keep shopping. Because hands vary in size, there
is no “perfect” handle shape. That’s why it’s important to actually handle a knife before you buy to see how it fits the dynamics of your hand size and shape. Feel for any sharp edges, rough surfaces or “hot spots” that don’t feel good to your hand. The handle material should offer enough texture to ensure a solid grip with- out being too abrasive. Similarly, the profile of the handle should support a comfortable grip and impact/shock management without forcing your hand into a specific grip style. One tip regarding grip: If you are a
fan of metal-handled knives but want to improve their grip surface, visit the hardware store and buy the rub- berized traction tape intended for the floors of showers and bathtubs. Cut a “decal” of this tape to match the out- line of your knife and stick it to the handle. This provides a great grip and is much less abrasive than the often- recommended skateboard tape.
Hawkbill blades cut very aggressively, but if they are too radically curved they lose their thrusting potential. When gripped with a natural wrist angle, the point should face straight forward.
Strength is obviously a very desir-
able quality in any defensive folding knife. A lock failure could cause a folding knife to not only live up to its name at the wrong time; it could also cost you a few fingers in the process.
Quality Lock Only The design, engineering and qual-
ity of execution of a folding-knife lock all affect a knife’s inherent strength and its ability to withstand the physi- cal
stresses of powerful cuts and
thrusts. In recent years there has been an explosion of creativity in folding- knife locks. Some are merely novel- ties, while others offer significant improvements in lock strength. Your goal should be to find a lock strong enough to stand up to the types of stresses you can realistically expect in the dynamic application of your knife tactics, while providing a high degree of ease of use. Extreme lock strength is great, but if it makes a knife impos- sible to operate easily and discreetly, you’ve lost focus. In addition to pure lock strength,
One-handed opening of the blade is accom- plished via a choice of thumb purchases, including holes, studs, and disks.
22
While “deep-pocket” clips carry knives very discreetly, they may not support quick deployment of the blade once the knife is drawn. Having to adjust your grip before you can open the blade is very undesirable, especially under stress.
PERSONAL DEFENSE • SPRING 2011 SPECIAL EDITION
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