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360º I


’ve come north to Alaska to do as many active pursuits as possible in roughly 10 idyllic days in Glacier Bay, Denali and Wrangell-St. Elias National Parks. Granted, a day spent


cruising for wildlife and calving glaciers is the easy way out, or in, as it were, but tomorrow I hope to see the whales from sea level, in a kayak. Unless you’re seeing Glacier Bay from a cruise ship, you’ll likely start your visit by fl ying or ferrying into Gustavus, a village of 400 year- round residents. To stay in the park, plan on booking several nights at the Glacier Bay Lodge, located on the south shore of Bartlett Cove. With just 56 rooms and a fi ne restaurant, this is a very comfort- able base camp from which to sea kayak, hike, fi sh, whale watch, go fl ight seeing, or rent a bike to cycle eight miles to sample the growing Gustavus art scene. After the cruise I decide to take


advantage of the endless summer daylight to hike two miles from the lodge to the Bartlett River, where a black bear with cubs has recently


A brown bear dining on soapberries alongside the road to Wonder Lake, Denali National Park.


EnCompass January/February 2011 25


Story and photographs by Kerrick James


This is really not a whale tour!” Ranger Linda Lieberman says, smiling infectiously, as the thrilled passengers on the Baranoff Wind spy playful


humpbacks, a cruising pod of orca, and a breaching minke whale. Today’s cruise in Glacier Bay, a well-known yet lesser-visited jewel among Alaska’s array of National Parks, seems an embarrassment of wildlife riches. Besides the whales we’ve seen a cinnamon bear foraging the tide line, bright white mountain goats roaming the dolomite high on Gloomy Knob, puffi ns rising off the calm cold waters, and Stellar sea lions cavorting on South Marble Island.


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