12 San Diego Uptown News | October 15-28, 2010
DINING
PIZZERIA BRUNO O
By David Nelson SDUN Restaurant Critic
h, authenticity! It’s something we all love, except when it clashes with our expecta- tions.
Collar your nearest Italian buddy and demand
his take on Pizzeria Bruno, the napoletano (Naples- style) house of pies on Park Blvd. near El Cajon Blvd. A survey of my own Italian acquaintances – by which I mean actual citizens of Italy who live in San Diego – received the unanimous verdict that Bruno serves the most authentic pizza in town. “It tastes just like pizza does at home,” says a pal
from Lombardy who runs a small café downtown. “The first time I went to Bruno, I closed my eyes when I took my first bite and suddenly I was back with my family in Italy, eating pizza and drinking wine.” And here’s the rub: Bruno’s pizza sails through
the authenticity test, but there are differences be- tween the genuine article and pizza as many Ameri- cans have been educated, usually for the worse, to understand it. A real Neapolitan pie, which is the kind served at Bruno, has a high, wide rim darkened by the oven’s diabolical heat. Italians call this the frame and generally trim it away. Yet as hot as the flames that roar inside the oven may be, the center of the pie usually is rather soft and moist, an effect not always beloved by those unaccustomed to this condition. The key difference is that Americans usually expect a wild exuberance of toppings; in the most extreme example, Chicago stuffed deep-dish
see Bruno, page 13 Baby, it’s hot inside the beehive-shaped pizza oven at Pizzeria Bruno, 4207 Park Blvd. A TASTE OF AUTHENTIC NAPOLETANO PIZZA
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MISSION NIGHTS
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