Barbara Bui
Miu Miu
Derek Lam
Zac Posen Fashion Trends Autumn/Winter 2011
Ornate Excess A reaction to the austere stance of a post-
Recession era, footwear makes a resounding, in-your-face statement for excess. Investment accessories reinvigorate tradition with a twist, as classic shapes are overloaded with appliqué, embroidery and sequins. The over- exaggerated flamboyance of ornate excess explores the boundaries of imagination, the Baroque inspired opulence the direct antithesis to sleek minimalism and fifties femininity. A focus on luxury – including velvet, gilt, studding and crystals – promotes a new take on decadence; suggesting that understatement is most certainly overrated. On the runway, Alexander McQueen’s
crystal and gold angel wing shoe exemplified the concept; the dramatic footwear concluded a collection that was rife with medieval and religious references.
Elsewhere, Barbara Bui’s stiletto heeled booties were adorned with sequins and metallic detailing, whilst Derek Lam and Louise Goldin favoured all-over sequins and crystals, tempered with attention-grabbing heels. The always subversive Christopher Kane adorned ghillie-laced, stiletto boots with starbursts of semi-precious stones, that simultaneously reconciled religious emblems with Dolly Parton stage attire. The captivating aesthetic mixes historic
heirlooms with contemporary details; the trend hinting at an eclectic dressing-up box bricolage, that borrows from a nomadic global traveller. Colour palettes are lifted with accents of pomander and blotting paper blue, whilst shiny metallic elements add interest to uppers. Embrace notions of excess, and allow imaginations to take flights of fancy as footwear embraces the frivolous.
Christopher Kane
Womens CAD drawings
Multi-lace Stiletto The severity of multiple lace-up fastenings are tempered by sequin toe and upper detailing. A concentrated placement avoids over-exaggerated excess, and represent a commercially viable alternative. A muted colour palette evokes notions elegance, easily subverted with the application of primary brights.
Peep-toe Boot The classic stiletto boot is reinvigorated with a peep-toe and lace-up detailing, the style elevated with a coordinating heel and platform sole. Embroidery and appliqué detailing adds a grown-up glamour, the vertical patterning borrowing from conventional tribal motifs.
Jewel Encrusted Bootie Jewel embellishments stand out in stark relief on a leather upper, the detailing extending down the heel. Rich colours hint at Baroque sensibilities, as past fuses with the present. A peep-toe detailing nods to a flirty, youth driven style, apply to classic courts with a lower heel for mainstream appeal.
14 • FOOTWEAR TODAY
• OCTOBER 2010
Christopher Kane
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