WEDNESDAY, JULY 28, 2010 WINE Dave McIntyre The grapes behind the label wine from E1
ing breezes. “Most of California’s valleys are shielded from the ocean by north-south mountain ranges, but the San Rafael Mountains run northwest to southeast, channeling the cool air past BienNacido and throughout the SantaMaria Valley,” he said. The cool mornings and
evenings benefit the grapes. A coastal inversion that hits the area each June and July suppresses temperatures and slams the brakes on photosynthesis. Even when the heat returns in August, it rarely spikes above 90 degrees for more than a fewhours. BienNacido is ideally
situated to take advantage of this climate. The estate lies where the Sisquoc and Cuyama rivers join to become the Santa Maria, at the northern end of the San Rafael chain, where the mountains dissolve into a series of dramatic folds, as though a giant long ago clawed the earth. Most of the nearly 600 acres of vineyards are on south- or southwest-facing slopes in poor, loamy soils, territory seemingly destined to grow grapes. California wine is still young compared with its centuries-old, tradition-laden European counterparts. The Golden State does not have storied vineyards such as Clos de Vougeot or Romanee-Conti in Burgundy, Clos Ste.Hune in Alsace and Clos duMesnil in Champagne. Certain vineyards, however, have performed superbly enough—if over decades rather than centuries—to earn them special status as America’s premier vineyards. BienNacido ranks among
them. The key to its success and its terroir lies in the good fortune of its climate and geography, as well as shrewd management by its owners and the talents of dozens of winemakers who have crafted wines from its fruit. The vineyard’s history
extends into California’s colonial past. The area was part of a Spanish land grant of 9,000 acres in 1837, when it was called Rancho Tepusquet. In the late 1850s, Don Juan Pacifico Ontiveros built an adobe home for his family and planted several crops, including wine grapes. A descendent, James Ontiveros, now works for the Millers, helping to manage the estate. The adobe, recently restored, remains a centerpiece of the property. NicholasMiller’s father,
Stephen, and his uncle Robert, fourth-generation farmers, bought the property in 1969 and began planting grapevines four years later. They called the estate BienNacido, or “Well Born,” a nickname given to it by theMexican vineyard workers who joked that the land was as coddled as a privileged child. The first lots they planted were named less imaginatively as A
and biodynamic methods on some blocks. What makes BienNacido
fruit so sought after?Miller says the long growing season helps promote balance and structure in the wines. “Slow ripening helps maintain acidity while avoiding late sugar spikes,” he said. Clendenen credits the site’s
varied topography for extending the harvest. “This place is unique because we have very specific growing conditions that allow us to harvest grapes over three months’ time,” he said. Pinot noir ripens in early September, while syrah typically is ready to pick in October. In some years, the harvest can extend intoNovember, which is possible because Santa Barbara County does not get the autumn rains that hit wine regions farther north in California and Oregon. BienNacido’s location at the
TRACY A. WOODWARD/THE WASHINGTON POST On the shelves
Find out where to buy wines made with Bien Nacido grapes at
www.washingtonpost.com/food.
through Z. (When they ran out of letters, they started over with Block 1.) In the early years, most of the
grapes were sold to large wineries such as Korbel, but in the late 1980s, theMillers began looking for artisanal, small- production winemakers to take advantage of the vineyard’s full potential. They recruited Jim Clendenen and Adam Tolmach of Au Bon Climat and Bob Lindquist of Qupe to make wines from their fruit and label them with the vineyard name. The wines excelled, and Bien Nacido’s reputation skyrocketed. Today, Clendenen, Lindquist
and Tolmach—who launched his own winery, Ojai Vineyard, in 1991—are still the winemakers most associated with the property. Au Bon Climat and Qupe share a winery at BienNacido. (Another winery that uses their grapes, Tantara, is nearby.) Over the years, the quality of
BienNacido grapes has attracted other big names in California wine, such as Whitcraft, Lane Tanner, Gary Farrell, Longoria and Sine Qua Non. Even “northern” wineries such as Villa Mt. Eden inNapa County and Landmark in Sonoma produce wines from BienNacido fruit. The vineyard is so prized among winemakers and wine lovers that some wines are even labeled according to the particular block where they originated. Block Z is famous for syrah, while blocks I,QandN are noted for pinot noir. The Millers contract by plot or block rather than by grape tonnage, and they farm each parcel according to the client’s specifications, including organic
northern end of the SantaMaria Valley is important, said Jeff Wilkes, who worked there in the 1980s and now makes wine under his J. Wilkes label. “Just a little farther inland down the valley, the temperature gets a little warmer, and you don’t get the same balance in the wines,” he said. And “closer to the ocean, the grapes won’t ripen.” Do those factors translate
into the wines? “There’s no question that BienNacido pinot noir has a certain personality,” Tolmach said. “There’s a certain herbal tinge to the fruit, and I mean that in a positive way.” Lindquist agreed. “There is
definitely a BienNacido terroir,” he said. “There’s a level of spice in the pinot noir and syrah grown here. It’s hard to putmy finger on it, but it’s a hard spice, like cardamom or cinnamon— an Asian spice.” TheMiller team now consists
of Steve, Nicholas and Steve’s second son,Marshall, along with vineyard manager Chris Hammel, who joined the company in 2001. (RobertMiller died in 2006.) For nearly 40 years the family has farmed Bien Nacido and let others express the vineyard’s voice through their winemaking. This year, however, theMillers will release their first wines under their own BienNacido Vineyards label: a 2007 pinot noir that manages to be silky and voluptuous yet tightly structured, and a 2007 syrah that offers sweet cherry, olive and prosciutto flavors with that BienNacido spice on the finish. There will also be a 2008 chardonnay from SolomonHills Vineyard, anotherMiller-owned property a fewmiles to the southwest, that combines lush California fruit with refreshing acidity. Was it difficult to make wine
after so many years concentrating on growing the grapes? I asked NicholasMiller. He smiled and said, “Well, we
had some good consultants to help.”
food@washpost.com T
KLMNO
EZ
EE
Drink
SPIRITS Jason Wilson
Lose the garters, and get ready for Zucca new orleans
here is something about Tales of the Cocktail, the huge spirits industry
conference that has been held here every July for eight years, that leads one to make epic pronouncements about booze. Take, for instance, this one
from F. Paul Pacult: “Gin is such a lovely invention. There is the wheel, and then there’s gin.” Pacult, a critic and the
publisher of the influential newsletter Spirits Journal, made that observation during a session on how to “Hone Your Sensory Skills to aHigher Level.” His seminar, in which we
tasted six spirits, was a sort of refresher course, with basic reminders: Tasting spirits is different from tasting wine. Don’t swirl too much, and go for shallower, fast sniffs, with your lips slightly parted, rather than a long inhale. Take a small, quick sip to clear the palate before taking a larger sip for the actual sample. “Don’t overtax your palate,” says Pacult, who never attempts more than about eight spirits in a sitting. “Don’t think too much. Don’t over- analyze.” Of course, he then passed out
rating sheets specifying 49 criteria on which to grade each spirit. Ten minutes after we were taught how to smell, Pacult informed us that we should detect a hint of “eastern Speyside” in the Chivas Regal blended Scotch we were sipping. A bit later we tastedMartell XO cognac, which rarely retails for less than $120 a bottle. “How does it taste?” Pacult asked. “It doesn’t suck,” shouted someone from the audience. Pacult’s instruction seemed
almost quaint in comparison with the rest of Tales. With reps from the the large liquor companies, public relations people and thousands of attendees swarming theHotel Monteleone, and with all of the flashy promotional events— including a Cointreau-branded burlesque show by Dita Von Teese that kicked off the week and Diageo’s happy hour, with 51 bartenders serving 46 kinds of cocktails on three floors of the Louisiana StateMuseum—it was easy to forget that Tales of
the Cocktail started as a small educational conference for bartenders and spirits industry folks. It has been an essential
gathering during an era when bartending has evolved into the “mixology” we hear so much about these days. It’s no surprise that an embarrassing old cocktail gets “buried” every year in an elaborate jazz funeral procession. The Appletini and the RedHeaded Slut have been killed off in years past. This year: Sex on the Beach. What mostly draws me to
It’s clear that the speak-easy trend of the past three or four years is on the wane.
Tales now is the chance to get a sneak peek at emerging trends and newproducts we’ll be seeing on the local bar scene later this year.Hot item: It’s still tiki, tiki everywhere, including lots of newrums I’ll be writing about soon. And the bartender’s existential question of whether to embrace vodka was summed up by one panel: “IHate Vodka, I Love Vodka.” It’s clear that the speak-easy
trend of the past three or four years is on the wane, so much so that a caricature of the speak- easy bartender has emerged and become an object of lampoons. “The bigger your beard, the curlier your mustache, the better bartender you must be,” sniped Angus Winchester, a London “global bar” consultant and a “brand ambassador” for Tanqueray gin, at a seminar called “Bartending Fun-da- mentals.” “Mustaches and arm garters do not make a bartender.” (It should be noted that there
were lots of both inNew Orleans, in addition to trilby hats and seersucker suits.) In his seminar, Winchester
suggested that too many bartenders—in the race to elevate themselves to “mixologists” or “bar chefs”—
have lost their sense of fun.He suggested that perhaps it’s time to get away from the sanctimony and remember why people go to bars in the first place: “Bartenders get paid to flirt with girls and boys all evening. It’s about hosting.” As for newproducts, I nearly
cried when I sawZucca, the Italian rabarbaro (an amaro-like spirit that is infused predominantly with Chinese rhubarb) that I’d pined for back in April. Eric Seed, ofHaus Alpenz, finally persuaded the company in Italy that produces Disaronno amaretto to let him import Zucca, which it also owns. “They were skeptical,” Seed said. “But I explained there is now an appeal for amari in theU.S.” Beyond Zucca, I also tasted
an amazing gin made from damson plums—a sort of American cousin of British sloe gin—that will soon be launched byDHKrahn. After the success of its Chairman’s Reserve rum from St. Lucia,Washington’s Team Spirits will soon introduce a newspiced rum. I’d never been a fan of spiced rums, such as CaptainMorgan or Sailor Jerry, but Chairman’s Reserve was subtle and delicious. It has changedmy opinion. Finally, a product I hope we’ll
see soon is Root, inspired by an 18th-century Pennsylvania recipe for root tea, the precursor to root beer or birch beer. At 80 proof, and with its complex maceration of birch bark, spices and herbs, Root is the opposite of a silly, artificial “root beer” liqueur. I would actually call it the first American amaro. Going a step further, I would
say that the product launches coming to liquor store shelves in 2010 might be the most exciting I’ve seen since I’ve been covering this beat. And because Tales of the Cocktail is the time of year for boozy pronouncements, I guess I can get away with saying that.
food@washpost.com
Emily Callaghan contributed to this report. Follow Wilson on Twitter at
www.twitter.com/ boozecolumnist. His book, “Boozehound,” is to be published in September by Ten Speed Press.
E5
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ANNIVERSARY SALE WINES WEEKOF
LAST WEEK
THE BORDEAUX, FRANCE
CLOS BOURBON ROSÉ
2009
SALE REG 5.88 LB.
8.88 LB. 12.99 H 11.99 11.99
9.99 LB. 18.99 H 13.99 12.99
8.99 LB. 15.99 H 14.99 15.99
7.99 LB. 11.99 H 19.99 18.99
5.99 LB. 11.69 H 19.99 19.99
7.99 H
Located on beautiful hills overlooking the Garonne River in the Premières Côtes de Bordeaux, the 18th century Clos Bourbon is owned by winemaker Catherine d’Halluin. Although the Château has been painstakingly restored, it is very much a home to Catherine, her husband, and her young family.Made primarily from Cabernet Franc with a small amount of Merlot, this delicately fruity Rosé features lovely flavors of cherry, berry, and melon, energized by mineral and cedary character from Cabernet Franc. Medium-bodied and well-balanced, this finishes dry and fresh.
DIRECTOR OF WINE EDUCATION BEN GILIBERTI
REGULAR $9.99
8.99
CHÂTEAU THIEULEY BLANC BORDEAUX, FRANCE
2009
In the 1980s, when most Bordeaux estates were yanking out white grapes in favor of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, Château Thieuley owner Francis Courselle bucked the trend by increasing his acreage of Sémillon and Sauvignon Blanc. The move was a masterstroke. Run today by his daughters Marie and Sylvie, Château Thieuley has emerged as a showcase estate for the dramatic renaissance of white Bordeaux. This offering from the legendary 2009 vintage is delectable, displaying an impeccable balance between the crisp, lemony notes of Sauvignon Blanc, and the ripe, juicy fruit flavors of Sémillon. Gentle lees stirring provides a touch of spice on the finish.
DIRECTOR OF WINE EDUCATION
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THIS WEEK
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Bogle Cab •Zin 14.99
Edna Vy.•Clos Du Bois Chard....8.99 Estancia Chard•P.Grigio...........8.99 Mondavi Private Selection...........7.99 SterlingVtr.Chard..8.99 • P. Noir...10.99 S. Blanc •Chard•Merlot 8.99
Zin •Pet. Sirah •Cabernet 9.99
Ménage ÁTrois Red•White........8.99 Columbia Crest Grand Estate.......8.99 Blackstone •Ravenswood...........7.99 B.V. Coastal Chard•Cab •Pinot....6.99 Sale Ends 8/03/10
1.75 LTR.
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Jameson…36.99 •Bushmill.....30.99 Glenlivet 12 Yr...64.99 •Dewar’s...29.49 Glenfiddich 12 Yr...69.99 •J&B ....24.99 Chivas.....47.99 • J.Walker Red..28.49 Ballantine......22.99 •Cutty.......23.99 W. Horse…22.99 •Grant’s.........21.99
House of Stuart 13.99
~Bourbon/Blends~ Maker’sMark •Bulleit 90° ........39.99 Jack Daniel’s Black.....................33.99
Very Old Barton
6 YR. 86º
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Wild Turkey 101°.........................29.99 Evan Wms.…17.99 •Kty.Gent.....9.99 Crown Royal..34.99 • Can Club 15.99
24/12 OZ. CANS
Tecate Carlo Rossi Banfi Up to $24 Mail Rebate 15.99
Canadian Supreme 9.99 Wednesday
4LTR. GLASS
Thursday 9.99
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Friday 8.99
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Saturday
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BETTER THAN ½ PRICE!!
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Sauvignon Blanc
~Global Wine Values~ H. B. Picpoul De Pinet..................6.99 La Demoiselle De By Medoc.......14.99 Ch. Fongaban..............................14.99 Ch. Mylord“Cuvee Milady”..............14.99 Ch. Suau Bordeaux .....................11.99 Jip Jip Rocks Asst’dTypes..........10.99 Terra Barossa Shiraz.............Ltr...12.99 Kim CrawfordSauv.Blanc..........12.99 Nobilo Sauv.Blanc.......................8.99 Del Molino Tempranillo •Airen ...6.99 Montebuena Rioja........................9.99 Campo Viejo Crianza....................7.99 Hugl Grüner Veltliner.......... Ltr...10.99 Maringer Piesporter............. Ltr...11.99 Di Majo Sang •Busi Chianti........8.99 Ali Sangiovese •Vitiano..............8.99
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Grey Goose...48.99 • Belvedere...46.99 Ketel One.....36.99 •Absolut .....28.99 ThreeOlives....20.99 •Svedka...18.99 Smirnoff....17.49 •Luksusowa....17.99 Fris ...............17.49 •Sobieski...16.99
Denmark From Barton’s Barton’s
CHARCOAL FILTERED!!
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Cuervo...25.99•Malibu..............18.49 Bacardi...18.99 •C.Morgan.......18.49 Cruzan........16.99 Barton’s11.99
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750 ML.
W. Spectator8.99 1.5 89 PTS!
Cabernet ~Fire Up The Grill~
Grand Cassagne Rose.................. 7.99 High Note Malbec ........................8.99 Parados WinemakersSel.................8.99 Stump Jump Red ........................9.99 Cat &Pigeons Shiraz..................13.99 Zenato Pinot Grigio......................9.99 Perrin C-D-R Village.................... 11.99 Sabor Real Toro ...........................9.99 Firesteed Pinot Noir......................12.99 Newton Unfiltered Merlot.............29.99
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~Champagne/Bubbly~ Krug Grande Cuvee................... 119.99 Billion “Mesnil”•Pol Roger......39.99 Haton Gr.Res. •Blanc de Blanc 34.99 Pommery...29.99 •Roederer Brut ...32.99 P. Jouet•Mumm C. Rouge........29.99 Taittinger Brut..34.99 • Trouillard....27.99 Mumm Napa •Chandon.............13.99 Ste.Michelle...8.99 •Cristalino...6.99
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Clos Du Bois Chardonnay............16.99 FatBastardChard•Shiraz.........13.99 LatourArdeche Chardonnay.......13.99 Fabulous Australian Wines!! Wine Men of Gotham..............12.99 Maipe Malbec.............................14.99 Che Gaucho Malbec •Stella P.G. ....9.99 Bella Sera•B.V.Coastal.............10.99 LaVielle Ferme •Ruffino...........12.99 Stone Cellars•AliceWhite..........8.99 Beringer Founder’s.....................13.99 Redwood •Barefoot •Cavit........9.99 Meridian Chard•Cab•Merlot ...11.99 Santa Isabel Malbec •Chard......11.99 Rex Goliath •Jacob’sCreek ........9.99 Vendange •Citra.........................6.99 Sale Ends 8/03/10
ASST’D TYPES
Jim Beam New Amsterdam Gin 15.99
1.75 LTR.
750 ML
J. Walker Gold 52.99 Glenmorangie 10 Yr......................31.99 Lagavulin 16 Yr...........................59.99 Laphroaig 10 Yr...........................43.99 Macallan 12 Yr....44.99 • Cask.....51.99 Oban 14 Yr...................................46.99
Aberlour 12 Yr.............................34.99 Balvenie 12 Yr...35.99 • 15 Yr......49.99 Clynelish 14 Yr............................39.99 Chivas 18 Yr...49.99 •Royal Salute ...169.99 Dahlwinnie 15 Yr..........................41.99 Glenfiddich 12 Yr...34.99 • 15 Yr....44.99 Glenlivet 12 Yr...34.99 • 15 Yr......49.99 Blue 147.99
LANDSHARK LAGER $20.99
Beer Of The Week
TASTINGS FRI 4-7 • SAT 1-4 $
CASE 5.99 6PACK
~Cognac/Brandy/Etc.~ E&JV.S.…15.99 •V.S.O.P........16.99 MartellV.S.O.P...29.99 • G. Marnier ..29.99 Courvoisier V.S...19.99 • V.S.O.P....29.99 Hennessy V.S....24.99 • V.S.O.P.....36.99 Remy V.S.O.P....31.99 • Kahlua.......15.99
Amstel Lt./Heineken/Light ........22.99 Bass •Konig Pils •Red Stripe .....21.99 Beck’s•Harp •Spaten.............20.99 Corona •New Castle •Pilsner Urquell..22.99 Czeckvar •Peroni •StellaArtois....23.99 Dos Equis •Sol ..........................19.99 Bud •Bud Lt. (20Pk NR’S)............11.99 Bud •Bud Lt. (Cans)....................13.99 Dominion •Fordham.................23.99 Harpoon •Saranac....................24.99 Red Hook•Widmer...................23.99 Sam Adams •Sierra Nevada.....24.99
Great Lakes Brewing 28.99cs •8.496pk Dales•MamasPils•OldChub 26.99cs •7.496pk
Brooklyn Brewing Monday
24/12 OZ. NR’S
14.99
750 ML
Tuesday
Chianti Classico Hogue Yuengling Santa Rita120’s 4.99
27.99cs •7.996pk
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