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In sharp contrast to low-lying shoreline. The first lucky boats can tie planned to stopover in Refuge Cove on
Cortes Island, the mountainous up to two rings provided on the eastern the southeastern tip of West Redonda
Redonda Islands lie north of Desolation side, and stern-to anchorage is possible Island. Here we would top up with
Sound and west of Homfray Channel. in the popular nook southwest of the provisions and fuel before heading
They rise sheer from the depths of the falls or along part of the southeast along the eastern shoreline to beautiful
sea bed with Waddington Channel, shoreline, though both are subject to Roscoe Bay at the intersection of
the flooded valley, separating East afternoon chop. A more protected two- Homfray and Waddington Channels.
Redonda from West Redonda Island. boat anchorage can be found further It was a peaceful night with only
On a light southerly we “drifted” west of the falls. the sound of the falls in the background
up Lewis Channel to enter Teakerne and the memory of our morning’s bathe
Arm Marine Park on West Redonda which had left us feeling gloriously
Island, where the warm waters of Cassel clean and refreshed - an experience we
Lake and the beauty of its powerful intend to repeat as often as possible on
falls awaited us. Lakes have a magnetic this laid-back, summer’s adventure.
pull for those who love to bathe in Surrounded by steep, forested
freshwater surrounded by wilderness slopes and fed by a freshwater lake, we
and wildlife, and the day we arrived followed the three boats ahead of us
it began to rain softly, which made our and entered the anchorage in Roscoe
planned swimming excursion even Bay Marine Park on a rising tide.
more of an adventure. Because of the gravel and rock bar at
Anchoring near the marine park’s the bay’s entrance, this protected bay
dinghy dock with a stern line ashore, becomes land-locked at low water.
we pulled on swimsuits and wet- It was a busy day inside, with four
weather gear, packed dry clothes and or five boats already at anchor. Cozy in
towels, and took the well-worn trail their cockpits with cool drinks in hand,
to the ledge of smooth, clean bathing they enjoyed that pleasant boaters’
rocks on commodious Cassel Lake’s pastime of watching neighbors anchor
southern shore. Not a soul was about. without making it seem obvious. Once
The lake was clean and inviting and everyone was happy with their chosen
the knotted haul-out rope still securely anchorage and anchor positions, it was
attached to the base of the overhanging time to step into our faithfully tethered
Arbutus tree. dinghy Tink, do the ritual pump-up
We stripped down to our and take an evaluation rowabout.
swimwear - not to embarrass any The next morning, we woke to
passing visitors - counted to three and another blue-sky day and were eager
leaped into the blissfully tepid water. to visit Black Lake, where we knew
It was a joy to swim in the rain, float that excellent freshwater bathing and
on our backs and perform underwater A large sailboat had taken up a smooth expanse of rocks awaited us
somersaults, while a pair of startled residence beside the falls; with stern just a short hike from the mouth of the
wood ducks looked on from a safe lines ashore and extensive spring lines lake. It was an easy walk from the bay,
distance. Towelled down and dry, we attached to the steep cliffs; its owners along a well-maintained trail to the
replaced swimsuits with dry clothes looked comfortable in their 360-degree swimming rocks. As we leaped from
and rain jackets before taking the path raised pilothouse, reading the papers the diving ledge, the water temperature
back down to base camp. There, an and taking in the glorious setting. was noticeably cooler but delightfully
abandoned, rusty, steam donkey was The southern shoreline of Teakerne refreshing. The flat sunbathing rocks
slowly growing, hidden by grass and Arm affords splendid sunsets, and were warm and welcoming as we
leafy salal bushes. rafting alongside a log boom is always dried off, nibbling on the small, juicy
For those of us who have always acceptable, but be prepared to untie blackberries we picked en route and
wondered why these machines were at a moment’s notice and at any hour enjoyed the luxury of basking and
called “donkeys” but have never dared of the day or night. It should be noted swimming to our heart’s content.
or bothered to ask, June Cameron that although log booms appear to be Timing our exit from Roscoe Bay
supplies the answer in her memoirs sturdy and are rather tempting, they are the following day to coincide with
of the island’s early logging practices, extremely dangerous to walk or play “not-quite-high” water, we headed
Destination Cortez Island: “The early on. Temporary, fair-weather anchorage Dreamspeaker north to the warm waters
engines had less than one horsepower, can also be found in Eastern Teakerne of Pendrell Sound which intersects
so were called “donkeys” and the name Arm or at the head of Talbot Cove, but with Waddington Channel and almost
stuck.” Simple as that. take care to avoid the drying rock near divides East Redonda Island in half.
It’s difficult to anchor close to the the center of the cove. The island’s eastern side has a unique
popular “Cassel Lake Falls” as the Back at our cozy anchorage, we ecosystem and is protected as an
water is very deep right up to the rocky prepared for the following day; we ecological reserve, enabling scientists
48° No r t h , Ma r c h 2010 Pa g e 43
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