Now that the outline has been removed, it is sand-
blasted using Black Diamond coarse sand. The
sandblasted outline will act as a “pin-stripe” for my
design. It also has the unique effect of flopping col-
ors. In sunlight, it appears like a metallic red, but
will flop to black cherry in the shade. Remove the
masking and degrease immediately. I then apply 2
light coats of Bulldog Adhesion Promoter, allowing
5 minutes between coats. The Bulldog will act as a
clear etch primer, thus eliminating adhesion issues,
and allow the worked metal to be visible. Allow at
least 10 minutes dry time after the second coat. Four
coats of Matrix MTB 500 (inner-clear) are applied
to the panel to finish sealing it off. I let dry over-
night, then block-sand using 800 grit wet paper.
Using clear Stretch Mask, I back-mask the entire image. Because 10%. Grabbing every skull stencil that I have ever owned, I be-
I know that I will be working on this project for an extended pe- gin lightly transferring the images using AA Transparent Black,
riod of time, I apply a white base using Auto Air Semi-Opaque mixed 1:1 with 4010 reducer. I used an IWATA Eclipse BCS
White (thus eliminating worries about time-windows or using (.5mm) for this project and the Huntington Beach and Richard
inner-clears). I reduce the AA White with AA 4010 Reducer by Markham’s skull stencils.
I then begin to detail the skulls in. Once the image is transferred, non-stenciled, 3 dimensional appearance. I’ve always said, if
I “trace” the lines to give the skull a free-hand look. Once the you can color in a coloring book, you can airbrush!
lines are in place, I begin shading the skulls, thus creating a
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