Galley Essentials with Amanda
It’s August - time 2 tablespoons red wine
for Viana’s festival vinegar
of Nossa Senhora 1 teaspoon chili paste
d'Agonia. Viana do salt and pepper
Castelo, Portugal’s Char over a flame,
northernmost port, is grill or broil red and
located at the mouth green peppers, turning
of the Lima River. occasionally, until
We’d surfed into the lightly blackened. Place
city with northerly in a plastic bag to steam.
winds, gusting 40 Repeat with tomatoes,
knots, a few years ago. but first lightly coat
It was then October,
The Festival of
in olive oil as they will
long past the summer season activities, cook quicker. Remove when lightly
but the tranquil city with remarkable
Nossa Senhora d’Agonia
blackened and cool on a tray. Slice
16th century architecture, generous cucumber into ½ inch thick slices, set
hardworking folk, stunning beaches
by Amanda Swan Neal
on a rack and sprinkle with salt. Let
and wholesome restaurants, tugged at rest 20 minutes to release some water.
something inside us. the streets in the fish district. I assumed Peel skin off peppers and chop. Repeat
King Afonso III of Portugal founded salt would be sprinkled throughout the with tomatoes, discarding most of the
the town in 1253 in the name of Viana, lanes in blessing, but when we arrived pulp. Toss vegetables in a large bowl,
but it was during the 16th century that we found hundreds of people spreading add remaining ingredients.
the city gained great importance as the narrow cobbled lanes, meticulously
one of the main ports from which the by hand, with a thick layer of variously- Caldo Verde
Portuguese explorers set sail. Nowadays hued salts. Elaborate designs were being 1 onion - minced
the historical city is renowned for kite created from large metal templates that 1 garlic clove - minced
surfing, countryside exploration and were transferred along the lanes by 3 tablespoons olive oil
traditional folklore festivals. The official eager helpful guys. Traditionally it is 6 potatoes - peeled and sliced
festival season begins in May with the the fisherman’s wives who spread the 8 cups vegetable stock
Festival of Roses and when August salt, but even a Girl Scout troop was 6oz garlicky type sausage - sliced thin
arrives, the town is in full celebration. busy salting. I quickly jumped right in 2 teaspoons salt
While sailing the coast of Spain last to lend a hand and was soon chatting large bunch collards, kale, or
August we realized we’d be arriving in away with several charming girls. They turnip greens - sliced
Viana around festival time. Our sailing happily conveyed they always come smoked paprika
conditions were terrific as we crossed home from university for the event and In a large saucepan sauté onion and
the border and when we closed the 35 that they’d be up all night salting. John garlic in oil 3 minutes. Add potatoes and
miles to Viana, John and I had to do some had other plans and soon dragged me sauté, stirring constantly, 3 minutes.
quick talking to convince our crew to away to a tiny restaurant for a simple Add water, cover, and simmer for 20
put on the brakes. As we powered up dinner of Portuguese salad and rustic minutes. Meanwhile sauté sausage, 8
the flowing river to the small marina, soup, Caldo Verde. minutes. Mash potatoes in the pot or
tucked into the riverbank at the base puree them. Add sausage, salt, and
of the Gustave Eiffel Bridge, we grew Portuguese Salad pepper, simmer 5 minutes. Add greens,
in awe of the decorated waterfront and 1 red bell pepper simmer 5 minutes. Garnish with swirl of
were soon informed that the city was 1 green bell pepper mixed smoked paprika and serve with
also celebrating its 750th anniversary. It 3 tomatoes chunks of country bread. Serves 6.
was definitely time to go exploring. ¼ cup olive oil
Tonight was the start of the five day 1 cucumber - peeled Later we caught up with our crew
festival beginning with the salting of ¼ cup cilantro - chopped who raved about their evening. They’d
48° No r t h , Au g u s t 2009 PA g e 38
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