SGBGolf_May09_p34:SGBGolf_May09_p34 29/04/2009 15:11 Page 34
Custom-fit workshop
Component bonding
In chapter three of Golfsmith Europe’s step-by-step guide
to ‘custom fitting, component selection and
assembly’, technical director Neil Cooke offers a guide
o the all- to the all-important process of component bonding
B
onding golf club components
“
The single most
important not to remove chrome above the
together is the most critical stage of top of the hosel as this will rust, especially on
custom-fitting, and thereby the
important ingredient in
clubs that don’t require a ferrule.
single most important ingredient in
clubmaking is the epoxy
When preparing the tip of a graphite shaft, it
clubmaking is the epoxy used to bind the is essential to remove all paint from the full
head to the shaft. Using the wrong epoxy,
used to bind the head to
depth of the bore. Failure to do so can lead to
or just poor preparation, can result in loose heads or that alarming “creaking”
catastrophe. Reputation and credibility
the shaft. Using the wrong
sound, which is caused by part of the shaft
could be wrecked if the wrong adhesives
epoxy, or just poor
being fully secured while the higher torque of
are used. graphite forces unsecured parts to turn. The
There are two types of epoxy used in club
preparation, can result
cheapest way to prepare graphite tips is to
making: one is a slow cure that can take up to
in disaster.
”
scrape with the edge of a sharp Stanley knife
24 hours to fully cure, and the other is the fast blade. This removes only the paint and it is
setting variety which takes as little as five to 10 virtually impossible to damage the graphite
minutes. It is easy to be drawn to the faster fibres. If you use a belt sander, I recommend
setting epoxy, with the temptation to try the club immediately, but it is better you buy Trizac belts, which are designed specially for graphite and will not
to use the slower setting where possible. Quick set epoxies are considerably damage the shafts in the same way a sand grit belt will.
more expensive and many don’t have the shear strength to stand up to the Examine the inside of the hosel to make sure there is no dirt, rust or
wear and tear of a golf club. Also, the faster the epoxy sets, the less time the anything else that might prevent the epoxy from adhering. Acetone cleans
clubmaker has to assemble a club properly, let alone a full set. out any substance. Wire brushes or round files are a good idea to roughen
up the inside of the hosel, and allow for a better bond between the epoxy,
Lethal weapon the shaft and the hosel.
Many years ago, while assembling a set of clubs for a European Tour
player, I made a full set using a five-minute epoxy thinking I had enough Finishing touches
time for the full 10 irons. It was only later that week, when the pro’s playing The last stage is to fit a ferrule, if required. The plastic ferrule is purely
partner at the PGA Championship at Wentworth was nearly killed by a cosmetic, and its function is to hide the fact that the bore may not be
flying wedge head, that I decided to revise my ideas on fast-cure epoxy. central in the head. The ferrule should be slightly bigger than the hosel
Things have moved on a lot since those days, and in fact here at diameter, and if the bore is not central and the ferrule is an exact fit there
Golfsmith we occasionally use an epoxy that sets in literally seconds, as it will an over hang on one side, and the hosel will be visible on the other. Be
works on oxygen starvation to cure. The tighter the fit the faster it cures, careful when tapping on ferrules using the clubhead, as high repetition can
however on particularly snug fits we have struggled to align the logos cause joint problems, and more than once I’ve ended up having stitches in
before the shaft has set. The longer curing epoxy allows the clubmaker my hand after slipping! It is best to invest in a ferrule setter.
plenty of time to check specifications and make any necessary alterations. Once the shafts have been prepared, the ferrules fitted and any
swingweight material added, it is time to epoxy it all together. Make sure
Into the rough there is an adequate covering of epoxy on both shaft and hosel, wipe any
Equally as important as the choice of epoxy is the preparation of both the surplus off with paper towels, and remember it is easier to remove fresh
shaft tip and clubhead hosel. If either is neglected, adhesion can fail. Firstly, epoxy than epoxy that has set. It is advisable to leave any gluing overnight,
the tip of the shaft must be properly prepared; for steel shafts this involves and to avoid any accidental contact with wet epoxy during day to day shop
completely removing the chrome plating from the tip - the rougher the activity. It is advisable to leave any unused epoxy next to the clubs, so that
finish the better. you can check the following morning it has set properly.
Using a one-inch belt sander with a 60 grit is the best method. By taking great care at this stage of the assembly, you reputation is in safe
A basic file is adequate but it is not as thorough and it is physically harder hands.
work. However, do not use a hard stone wheel on a bench grinder as this
can gouge the shaft, leading to breakage and nullifying any warranty. It is www.golfsmith-europe.co.uk
34 SGB GOLF MAY 2009
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