TREND #2
past few years,” says Aimee Connolly, MUA and founder of Sculpted by Aimee. “Because of this, it’s natural that brands are highlighting ceramides as a star ingredient, even though they are already in a lot of products.” Noting that ceramides are both multi-taskers and suitable for essentially all skin types, she adds: “It’s also an easy entry point for customers looking to solve a particular problem. If they spot ceramides in the ingredient list, they know that the product will help to strengthen the skin barrier and protect the skin.” Cocokind’s new Ceramide Recovery Balm, which is designed to reinforce a healthy skin barrier function and prevent moisture loss by creating an occlusive layer, featuring squalane and oat kernel oil as well as ceramides, can be used as a multipurpose balm, or for slugging. And Byoma’s newly developed proprietary Barrier Lipid Complex, described as an ‘optimum concentration of ceramides and skin identical lipids’ is bringing barrier building benefits to the brand’s latest collection of products, which include the Hydrating Recovery Oil, designed to seal in hydration for an overnight barrier repair.
Find my fungi
2023 has already seen a wave of skin barrier-focused launches from the likes of Cocokind, Sculpted By Aimee and Byoma
Barrier support is set to remain a key focus for brands and consumers alike, while at the same time the skin rewilding trend will develop in new, experimental ways. “The unique nature of every person’s skin flora will create new opportunities in skin health tracking, with personalised products based on skin bacteria, genome sequencing, location data and weather,” says Varga. As a result, WGSN predicts a rise in dermatology-led products that measure all aspects of an individual’s health in order to prescribe specific and targeted skin care routines, with US- based biotech skin care brand Codex Labs being an early player with the development of personalised skin care based on skin microbiome testing, DNA testing and gut microbiome testing. Sienna Piccioni, Head of WGSN Beauty, adds:
“We’ve also seen this roll out with brands such as US skin care brand Dr Elsa Jungman who partnered with Profusion, a data science company, to create an algorithm to help users with product recommendations based on their microbiome profile. Users test their skin
ACTION POINTS
As well as ceramides, other skin identical ingredients that help substitute the skin barrier components will win out this year. Sam Murton, founder and CEO, Be for Innovation
A focus on rewilding will also lead to more innovations that protect skin barrier needs on a more individual level, from taking into account total body health to adapting to local climates.
microbiome and conduct a lifestyle survey to receive detailed information about the bacteria and fungi on their skin.”
Another example is Know Beauty, which makes DNA skin care much easier to understand for the consumer. Piccioni says: “Skin DNA results are demystified by each genetic category being given a number; the lower the number, the more the skin needs and a tailored 3-step routine is recommended on this basis.”
Skin care that takes into account region-specific concerns, such as the impact of local climate on the skin microbiome, and the resulting changes affecting it throughout the seasons will flourish as another strand of skin rewilding. And WGSN says that this will bring new opportunities in ‘climate- adaptive’ skin care – which Piccioni explains are hyper-specific formulas compatible with local climates. “A great brand is C-beauty player JollyMood which creates products tailored to the weather in China. Its cosmetic formulas are developed using the ‘Great Pharmacopoeia’, a Chinese herbology journal written during the Ming dynasty that splits the climate into 24 seasons, as opposed to four. For example, its 195° Exfoliating Body Polish is a scrub to help users transition from autumn to winter when skin metabolism is believed to be at its lowest and dullest,” she says. And it is not just niche brands moving into this space. Clinique is utilising this idea on a mass scale in the US with its limited-edition Moisture Surge that features NFC-enabled packaging, which provides a Daily Dehydrator Index viewable on a phone. “Users can access local weather forecasts and expert advice to set a routine based on their environment,” says Piccioni. There are also further opportunities to take an inside-and-out approach to skin rewilding, believes Connolly, something that brands are already starting to embrace. “Balancing any microbiome and flora means it’s as important that our skin is being nourished with from the inside as it is from the outside. Gut health and skin health are intrinsically linked, so it could be that the next hot innovations come in an ingestible, rather than topical, formula”
cosmeticsbusiness.com March 2023 cosmetics business 9
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