Skin rewilding
LETTING NATURE TAKE
ITS COURSE As barrier protection and repair dominates skin care, a more prescriptive approach could create the next conditions for the trend to thrive
I
n this age of ‘skinlightenment’, where consumers know their skin cycling from their slugging, one megatrend dominates: skin barrier protection. The term received double the amount of Google searches in 2022 vs 2021, And according to trend tracking company Glimpse, interest in skin barrier repair grew by 65% in the year to February 2023. On TikTok, the hashtag #skinbarrier has jumped from around 300 million to 2.9 billion views in the past year alone. Protecting the skin barrier to enable the microbiome to repair and perform its natural processes is a trend that WGSN describes as ‘skin rewilding’. WGSN Director of Beauty, Clare Varga, says: “As we enter a period of skin care enlightenment, rituals that nurture and protect the dermis will take products back to their microbial roots. In 2023, skin rewilding will be embraced as the antidote to modern skin problems, with ‘seed and feed’ products that help to repair, strengthen and protect the skin’s natural flora.” The trend has evolved as consumers seek to undo the overzealous use of potent products that, they have realised, cause more harm than good. “We have seen a noticeable change in how consumers are caring for their skin, particularly with blemish prone skin,” says Sam Murton, founder and CEO of Be for Innovation and anti- blemish skin care line Clear Skin Days, which is focused on supporting a healthier skin barrier. “Hydration plays such an important role in treating acne and consumers are really starting to understand this.” Murton says that the overarching driver for this is the rise of skin health as the number one priority for skin care consumers, whatever their age. “As a result, there has definitely been a renewed focus on moisture and the skin barrier to help
8 cosmetics business March 2023
address a wide range of skin conditions – basically getting to the root cause than just focusing on surface level aesthetics,” says Murton.
The ceramide surge Clare Varga ‘‘
In 2023, skin rewilding will be embraced as the antidote to modern skin
problems Clare Varga,
Director of Beauty, WGSN
This is driving the huge wave of new launches that support, protect and restore skin barrier function, while locking in moisture – in line with viral slugging and dolphin skin trends – with ingredients such as ceramides being particularly sought by consumers. According to Spate, searches for ceramides have been growing by 15% year-on-year. “Ceramides are one of the most well-known components of the skin’s lipid barrier, and we imagine this will become a bit of a hygiene factor in formulas to ensure barrier care in every step of the skin care routine,” says Murton.
#skinbarrier 2.9 billion views on TikTok 12 months to February 2023. Source: TikTok
Sales of the Ceramidin range from Dr Jart+, which features the brand’s proprietary ceramide complex, have increased 76% over the past year at John Lewis, while 2023 has already seen numerous new launches focused on the ingredient. Sculpted by Aimee’s new CloudCream launch is a nourishing ceramide moisturiser that helps to repair the skin’s protective barrier and lock in moisture, with the brand noting that the ceramides form a barrier that creates a seal against harmful elements. “Ceramides are one of the best ways to rebuild and protect the skin barrier – so a lot of people are talking about them as a solution for anyone who has been overusing actives for the
cosmeticsbusiness.com
Page 1 |
Page 2 |
Page 3 |
Page 4 |
Page 5 |
Page 6 |
Page 7 |
Page 8 |
Page 9 |
Page 10 |
Page 11 |
Page 12 |
Page 13 |
Page 14 |
Page 15 |
Page 16 |
Page 17 |
Page 18 |
Page 19 |
Page 20
