TREND #4
skin, says that not only have studies have shown that dermatologists are not given enough exposure to how skin conditions manifest in different tones, with many reporting feeling less prepared to care for skin of colour, but “research studies on skin care treatments do not always include research subjects with a range of skin tones.” As a result, Boakye adds: “There is a paucity of information regarding ingredients and their improvement on melanin-rich skin. However, we do know that black skin has a lower amount of ceramides in the skin which can contribute to xerosis or dry skin. We are also aware that eczema disproportionately affects the black and brown population and moisturisation is key when treating eczema.” While working with the product development team, Boyake was intentional about the ingredients selected for this line to address some of the conditions that she sees in her practice daily and taking into account the differences in ethnic skin. Choosing sea buckthorn and rose hip oil as the hero ingredients for the line, which includes a face and body wash, an oil, a moisturiser, an exfoliating cleanser, shave cream and toning mist, Boyake explains: “I was looking for oils that had a rich lipid and antioxidant profile to assist in keeping the skin hydrated and healthy.” Absolute Joi’s latest launch, Retinol Plus Vitamin C Skin Refining Night Oil is also a nourishing face oil, incorporating a blend of oils that are rich in essential linoleic and linolenic fatty acids to support the moisture barrier, as well as retinol and vitamin C to improve the look of dark marks and hyperpigmentation without irritating the skin.
A call for variety
Skin care brands including John Legend’s Loved101, Melé and Absolute Joi are specially formulated to meet melanin-rich skin needs
While other brands in this space continue to develop the category, with recent innovations including melanin-rich D2C skin care brand 4.5.6 launching a range of ready-made products to add to its customised skin care offer, and Urban Skin Rx adding new ranges such as its first men’s line, Beale says that the category is still nascent. “We do not yet have brands that offer the full end-to-end variety of products needed for melanin-rich skin,” she explains. “In addition to the unique needs based on melanin, there are also considerations for acne, eczema, sensitive skin, anti-ageing, sun protection, post-surgical care etc that need to be created with melanin-rich skin in mind.” Sun care is a highly important yet also significantly underserved segment, and one that led Naomi Osaka, tennis champion and activist, to establish KINLÒ, a protective skin care brand for people with melanated skin, in 2021. “I have found that black, brown, and other melanated skin toned communities are often an afterthought in the discussion and research surrounding sun care, including being excluded from clinical studies on skin cancer. Additionally, there is a lack of sun
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protection products being made with melanated skin in mind.” The resulting range includes Golden Rays Sunscreen SPF50+ which is mineral-based and white cast-free.
The space is also wide open for more brands generally to consider the structural and functional differences of melanin-rich skin tones, says Boakye. “There are so many conditions that disproportionately affect melanin-rich skin tones such as eczema, lupus and many more, and it would be great if all brands take these concerns into consideration as they develop specific products. The Loved01 brand is hoping to further advance the category in this space,” she adds. While the category may still be small, its players are united in their desire for change. So how can the beauty industry ensure that it develops as it should do? “It is imperative that the industry includes melanin rich skin tones as their subjects in studies for research,” says Boakye. Hakeem-Oyawoye agrees that building understanding of the complexities of melanin-rich skin will be key. “The limited data on hand has shown that skin structure changes by pigment level, so gaining a solid understanding on this will be the first step. Next will be sharing as much data as possible to overcome the decades-long gap in knowledge, and also pulling in consumers so products can be built which are true to their needs.” Meanwhile, Beale says that the category would also benefit from investors understanding the business opportunity that exists to cater to people of colour. “They are the fastest growing consumer groups in both the US and UK,” she says, noting that “building a skin care line is costly.” Upskilling brand founders through incubator and accelerator programmes in order to educate them on building a sustainable product pipeline will also be key for the industry, believes Hakeem-Oyawoye. And with indie brands and now celebrity brands starting to raise the profile of melanin-rich skin care, it is not only expected to become a new growth category within the wider skin care industry, it is an inherently necessary one
ACTION POINTS
There is a vast amount of opportunity for product innovation for melanin-rich skin, from sun care to acne care, and for brands to focus on consumer education.
Don’t pigeon-hole brands based on the race or ethnicity of the founders. Products for melanin-rich skin solve problems that are found in all consumers, whether it is a focus on managing sensitive skin, treating hyperpigmentation, using antioxidants for anti-ageing or finding mineral sunscreens that leave zero white cast. Dr Anne Beal, founder, Absolute Joi
March 2023 cosmetics business 13
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