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2023 CAMPING GUIDE


measuring 57,433 km², no less) features 10 truly eclectic departments to explore as part of your camping holiday: Ardennes, Aube, Bas-Rhin, Marne, Haute-Marne, Haut-Rhin, Meurthe-et-Moselle, Meuse, Moselle and Vosges. Prior to territorial reform in 2016 they made up the Lorraine, Alsace and Champagne- Ardenne regions and so they present real diversity when it comes to not only traditions and cultural heritage but also architecture and cuisine. Bordering Germany, Alsace flip-flopped between French and German rule throughout history, and retains clear reminders of its dual heritage, not least in its architecture and popular Christmas markets (Colmar and Strasbourg rank among the biggest and prettiest, while the latter’s European credentials cannot be bettered as the home of the EU’s administrative HQ). Some of Alsace’s notable gustatory exports even have German names, including the fermented cabbage dish, sauerkraut, Gewürztraminer wine (note its long, slender bottle and bottling named after the grape, which only happens in Alsace), hearty meat casserole Baeckeoffe and Flammekueche, a kind of Alsatian pizza. Purely French taste sensations abound in Champagne-Ardenne, however. This fizz-lover’s paradise presents many opportunities to tour and taste, either by foot, bike or car (do designate a chauffeur if indulging in the odd flute or two). Take your pick of family-run or traditional, household-name establishments, meet professional winemakers and generally drink in the grandeur of it all. In the main cities of Épernay (fizz hub), Troyes (capital of Aube with 16th-century buildings; old


town layout shaped like a Champagne cork) and Reims (breathtaking Gothic cathedral; site of French kings’ coronations) you will really get your architecture and history fix.


The birthplace of the delicious, eponymous cheese quiche, the formerly titled cultural and historical region of Lorraine has much to inspire and excite. Its strikingly attractive capital, Nancy, with the unmissable and golden-gated main square, Place Stanislas, is one for the wide lens photographer, while no more than an hour north by car is the prefecture of Moselle, Metz. Check out the Centre Pompidou-Metz, Saint- Étienne Cathedral (which celebrated its 800th anniversary in 2020), the Imperial District and Metz Train Station, voted as the most beautiful station in France several times. The


Meuse department is a great destination for families and ideal for camping, with its lush countryside, cycling and horse-riding routes, vélo-rail lines and treetop activity parks. And then, of course, there are the poignant and fascinating First World War-related sites, including memorials and battlefields. Gourmands will enjoy proudly produced local delicacies, such as the famous yellow Mirabelle plums, Commercy madeleines and Braquier sugared almonds from Verdun. Among Meuse’s must-see towns are Verdun, its capital Bar-le-Duc, Commercy and Saint-Mihiel. Further information The five regional tourism boards in Grand Est: www.visitardenne.com/fr; www.visit.alsace; www.champagne-ardenne- tourism.co.uk; www.tourisme-lorraine.fr;


explore.massif-des-vosges.com.


AUVERGNE- RHÔNE-ALPES


With its epic chain of volcanic


mountains and


the mighty Alps, this region epitomises the great French outdoors.


Taste the high life at the Champagne vineyards in Cramant, near Épernay


Containing the departments of Ain, Allier, Ardèche, Cantal, Drôme, Haute-Loire, Haute-Savoie, Isère, Loire, Lyon Metropolis, Puy-de- Dôme, Rhône and Savoie, the Auvergne Rhône-Alpes region offers some serious diversity, and superb family- friendly holidays with attitude at altitude. As the tourist board so succinctly puts it: “The Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes region boasts a wide array of destinations, with the city of Lyon, France’s capital of gastronomy, Mont Blanc (Europe’s highest point), the Drôme and Ardèche departments, reminiscent of Provence, and Auvergne with its lakes, Romanesque churches and volcanoes.” Come summertime when campsites are calling you, the Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes is the ideal destination for those who enjoy fresh air, outdoor activities and simple rustic pleasures. Ski resorts provide the superb facilities so beloved of skiers in winter, while the swathes of flower- filled meadows and grassy slopes lure hikers and mountain bikers. Auvergne’s greenery is unmatched and it has many superb natural regional parks. Puy de Dôme overlooks a range of 80 volcanoes that make up the Chaîne des Puys – reach the top in just 15 minutes aboard the Panoramique des Dômes train. The Rhône-Alpes, meanwhile, boasts picture- postcard Lake Geneva and Lake Annecy, providing ❯❯


Feb/Mar 2023 FRANCE TODAY ❘ 141


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