CARIBBEAN ALTERNATIVES
Love Barbados? Why not try Grenada?
Welcome to the spice cabinet of the Caribbean, where lush slopes abound with fragrant groves of bay leaves, and the air bristles with the scents of cinnamon, ginger and cloves. But perhaps the most emblematic spice of all on ‘Spice Island’, as Grenada proudly calls itself, is nutmeg and its derivative, mace. Grenada is the world’s second-largest producer, and so central is it to the island’s culture that it even features on the national flag. It’s more than an export — it’s part of the island’s soul. For the perfect introduction, Market Square in the capital,
St George’s, is the place to go. Each Friday and Saturday, locals stock up on spices, sauces, jellies and jams, fresh fruit and vegetables. The atmosphere hums with conversation and the occasional steel-pan soundtrack. For something stronger, swing by Clarkes Court distillery for a bottle of Black Gold, a premium- grade rum infused with nutmeg. Though not built on the same scale as Barbados, Grenada
has its share of luxurious resorts with exquisite dining options, including the elegant Calabash Hotel, where white tablecloths and swaying palms await at Rhodes Restaurant. Other culinary gems are more laid-back affairs: the Beachside Bistro on Grand Anse beach serves up octopus gnocchi and old fashioneds, while in St George’s, Dexter’s is a neighbourhood restaurant focusing on Caribbean classics, from curried goat to spicy crab backs. Armadillo, in the far north, promises an unforgettable lunch of lionfish ceviche with papaya, garlic lobster or lime pie with passion fruit sauce, all served in a garden of tropical flowers. Chocoholics can follow the bean-to-bar process at the historic
Belmont Plantation, dating back to the late 17th century. The 400-acre estate grows its cocoa beans among groves of nutmeg and coffee plants, which impart their flavours into the cocoa to produce a unique range of dark, milk and white chocolates. Visitors can tour the grounds, sample the goods and soak in the serenity of rural Grenada. But no trip to the island is complete without a plate of oil
down. Recipes for the national dish vary, although this fragrant stew always contains breadfruit, meat and dumplings, slowly simmered in coconut milk and spices. It’s a staple during Spicemas, the biggest of Grenada’s festivals; celebrations run between April and August, with plenty of parades, parties and local fare. It’s a jubilant showcase of the island’s spirit.
Clockwise from top: St George’s in Grenada is known for its pastel houses and horseshoe-shaped harbour; Tobago’s Castara Bay is a thriving fishing village, where traditional techniques are still practiced; turmeric is a key ingredient in Grenada’s national dish — oil down
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