WEEKENDER
RHYTHM & BOOZE
From May to October in Valletta, Friday evenings are for live jazz and cheap cocktails. Squeeze into a spot on the stone steps next to The Bridge Bar and bathe in the sinking sun, as the music eases you into the weekend.
LEFT: Looking out over Ramla Bay from Calypso’s Cave, Gozo
THREE MORE GOZO WALKING ROUTES
The tiny island of Gozo covers an area of just 26 square miles, and with little road traffic and a variety of jaw-dropping coastal scenery, it’s ideal for exploring on foot or by bicycle. These three routes — each around six miles in length — take in some of the island’s highlights.
BEST FOR NATURE Set off from the village of San Lawrenz over the hills and along the island’s rugged northeastern coast to Marsalforn. The walk takes in some of the island’s most beautiful scenery, passing gaping caves, fossil-studded cliffs and sun-baked scrubland. It’s a beautiful backdrop that’s distinctly Gozitan, dotted with clumps of prickly pear cacti, hay bales and swaying wild fennel. En route, take time to admire Wied il-Mielah, a dramatic limestone arch over the sea — a smaller but excellent alternative to the now-collapsed Azure Window — before taking a refreshing dip in the Wied il- Ghasri inlet, whose rocky slopes are covered in wildflowers.
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nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel
BEST FOR INTRIGUE Begin at the basilica of Ta’ Pinu, a revered site of pilgrimage and one of the island’s most famous churches. Next, journey to the Cittadella in Victoria, the heart of Gozo’s military history, including the tragic Ottoman siege of 1551. A plaque marks the home of Bernardo Dupuo, who took his and his family’s lives to spare them from being enslaved by the Ottomans. Finish up at Ramla Bay, location of Calypso’s Cave, believed to be the home of the famous nymph in Homer’s Odyssey. You can’t miss the statue of the Madonna on the red-sand beach, either; it was erected by three fishermen in the 19th century following their safe return aſter a storm at sea.
BEST FOR TRADITIONS Silver filigree, lacemaking and glassblowing are among Gozo’s most famous craſts, and though the handmade goods can be found in Victoria’s shops and surrounding villages, you can observe the artisans at work in open studios at the Ta’ Dbiegi Craſts Village in Kercem, set in a former military barracks. From there, head to Mekren’s Bakery in Nadur, a tiny establishment churning out ſtira (Maltese-style pizza) and qassatat (ricotta pies) from its stone oven. Next, make your way to the coast west of Marsalforn, where the Cini family has been harvesting sea salt on the Xwejni Salt Pans for generations, in a practice said to have been started by the Romans.
MORE INFO
visitmalta.com
visitgozo.com
heritagemalta.org
HOW TO DO IT Air Malta, EasyJet and British Airways fly direct to Malta Luqa International Airport, where car rentals and public transport services to Valletta are available.
airmalta.com
easyjet.com
ba.com The ferry to Gozo departs from Cirkewwa every 45 minutes, arriving in Mgarr, where public transport is available.
gozochannel.com Rooms at the Rosselli in Valletta are available from £193, B&B.
rossellimalta.com
IMAGE: 4CORNERS
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